July 17, 2008 - Pringle Hikes The Path
After months of being on the injured list, American climber Ethan Pringle bagged the second ascent of The Path 5.14 R at Back of The Lake, Lake Louise. The repeat came after just two top-rope rehearsal sessions and signals the return of Pringle to the elite climbing level.
Continued...
July 14, 2008 – Squamish Scandal
An upcoming closure of the Smoke Bluffs for commercial filming is causing a stir among the Squamish climbing community.
Continued...
July 3, 2008 - Nose Record Broken
The team of Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine set a new speed record for climbing the Nose on El Cap.
Continued...
June 25, 2008 - Germans Blitz Granite Wall
The strong German team of Stefan Glowacz, Robert Jasper, Klaus Fengler, Holger Heuber and Mariusz Hoffman recently completed one of the hardest big wall routes on Baffin Island.
Continued...
June 16, 2008 – McClure Makes Third Ascent of Rhapsody
Steve McClure is unstoppable this season. Having completed numerous difficult UK routes, McClure turned his attention to Rhapsody.
Continued...
June 16, 2008 - McColl Places Third in Italy
This weekend Sean McColl demonstrated the form which is earning him the title of Canada’s best climber. Continued...
June 10, 2008 – Trotter Repeats Rhapsody
After four and a half weeks of battling hot weather and shredded skin, Canadian Sonnie Trotter bagged the second ascent of Dave MacLeod’s poorly protected, 5.14 testpiece Rhapsody. Trotter continues to climb the world’s hardest gear lines and this route adds to his impressive tick list.
Continued...
June 1, 2008 - Sharma Sends in Spain
Chris Sharma’s recent move to Spain has not hurt his climbing as he recently bagged the first ascent of his new project in Oliana.
Continued...
May 28, 2008 – Tour De Bloc Canadian Nationals
The fifth season of Canada’s national bouldering series, the Tour De Bloc, concluded last week in Edmonton with the Canadian National Bouldering Championships. Over 100 climbers from across Canada competed for the national title, but in the end it was Sean McColl who won the men’s event while Thirza Carpenter dominated the women’s field. Continued...
May 21, 2008 - Big Day for 9a
Once considered the high point of climbing difficulty, 9a (5.14d) routes are now seeing regular ascents by elite climbers.
Continued...
May 20, 2008 - Turgeon Strikes Gold in Alaska
On April 30, Québec based climber Max Turgeon, climbing with Americans Ben Gilmore and Freddie Wilkinson, established an impressive new route on the south face of Bat’s Ears peak.
Continued...
May 9, 2008 – Pidgeon Soars in Bishop
Thomasina Pidgeon is widely acknowledged as Canada’s top female boulderer and her recent trip to Bishop confirms she’s worthy of this title.
Continued...
May 1, 2008 - Swiss Success in Nepal
On April 24, the strong Swiss team of Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck climbed the much attempted north face of Tengkangpoche. Continued...
Apr 21, 2008 - Peewee Bags Third Ascent of Bushido
On April 19, crack climbing specialist Jean-Pierre Ouellet (better known as Peewee to many climbers) bagged the third ascent of Bushido 5.13+ in Moab, Utah. The route was originally climbed by Noah Bigwood in 2004 and involves strenuous laybacking over 40m of climbing. Starting with wide hands and ending in thin fingers, Bushido follows an arching roof with almost horizontal climbing for 25 m. Continued...
Apr 2, 2008 – Success on the North Face of Mt Alberta
The committing and seldom climbed north face of Mt Alberta was repeated during March 26-28 by the talented team of Vince Anderson and Steve House.
Continued...
Mar 27, 2008 – New Rockies Route Fiesta
The Rockies are currently experiencing an exceptional level of new route activity with many new ascents and significant repeats. Continued...
Mar 24, 2008 - New Alpine Route in the Pyrenees
Acknowledged as the world’s best female sport climber, Josune Bereziartu is transferring her skills to larger and more committing routes. On March 14, Bereziartu and her husband Rikar, completed a new climb on the north face of Peña Telera 2764m.
Continued...
Mar 20, 2008 – MacLeod Climbs New Winter Route
After returning from a successful climbing trip in sunny Spain, Dave MacLeod set his sites on an unfinished line on Ben Nevis in Scotland. The new route, Don’t Die of Ignorance XI 11 275m, is the most difficult winter climb in the UK and took MacLeod six tries over three year to complete. Continued...
Mar 13, 2008 - MacLeod Solos 8c Sport Route in Spain
Known for headpointing difficult trad routes, Dave MacLeod recently transferred his do-not-fall skills to the sunny sport climbs of Spain.
On March 4, MacLeod soloed Darwin Dixit 8c (5.14b), a route he had originally climbed last spring.
Continued...
Mar 6, 2008 - Rodden Climbs Women's Hardest Trad Line
After four months of work Beth Rodden redpointed Meltdown 5.14c, a new and difficult trad route in Yosemite.
Continued...
Mar 3, 2008 – Four Day Hueco Tick List
Coming from a solid third place finish at the ABS National Bouldering Championships, Canadian Sean McColl spent last week sampling the bouldering scene in Hueco Tanks. Continued...
Feb 21, 2008 - Canadians Climbing Strong
Canadian male and female climbers climbers are having a great week with solid performances on stone and plastic.
Continued...
Feb 13, 2008 - Canadians Rocking Patagonia
Canadians are enjoying a spectacular Patagonia climbing season of significant repeats and impressive first ascents. On January 22, the North Vancouver-based team of Will Stanhope and Jason Kruk completed the first ascent of the west ridge of Poincenot.
Continued...
Feb 1, 2008 - Rockies Unlimited Mixed Climbing Potential
William Meinen's and Brandon Poullan's recently developed Rehab Wall confirms the huge untapped possibilities for mixed and ice routes in the in the Canadian Rockies. Continued...
Jan 28, 2008 - Torre Traverse Finally Tamed
A strong team consisting of accomplished alpine climbers Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley completed a significant new traverse in the Torre range. Continued...
Jan. 21, 2008 – Skaha Bluffs Saved
Climbers across North America are celebrating assured future access to Skaha, one of Canada’s most important climbing areas. Continued...
Jan 18, 2008 –Piolet d'Or Award Suspended for 2008
Organizers of the prestigious Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) award have suspended the award presentation for 2008. Conceived to recognize significant mountaineering ascents, the Piolet d'Or’s choice of winners has been an annual source of rancour in the mountaineering community. Continued...
Jan 16, 2008 - McColl Rampage Continues
Last week, visiting Canadian climber Sean McColl, completed some unfinished business in the Bishop bouldering area.
Continued...
Jan 14, 2008 - Newfoundland Ice Adventures
The Québec team of Yan Mongrain and Louis-Philippe Ménard bagged two significant new routes on the east coast, ice climbing playground of Newfoundland. Continued...
Jan 14, 2008 - Sir Edmund Hillary Dies
The world’s most famous climber, Sir Edmund Hillary, who made the first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953, died on January 11. For full obituaries please go here and here.
Jan 7, 2008 - McColl’s Mind-Blowing Bishop Ticklist
Canadian wonder-kid Sean McColl is celebrating the New Year with a successful bouldering vacation. During his stay in Bishop, McColl sent Goldfish Trombone V14, Direction V13, Xavier's Roof V12 and five other V11 boulder problems. Continued...
Dec 18, 2007 - Alpinist Magazine Warehouse Fire
On December 5, 2007, the building housing the magazines and merchandise for Alpinist magazine suffered a devastating fire. The destruction of the warehouse resulted in the loss of the entire Alpinist back issue inventory as well as all existing promotional material. This difficult event occurred during the Holiday season and we wish everyone at Alpinist the best of luck in overcoming this unfortunate situation. Continued...
Dec, 12, 2007 – Best in the World - Patxi Onsights 8c+
During these last two weeks, Spanish climber Patxi Usobiaga has shattered the existing benchmarks for fast ascents of difficult routes with the single day tick list of La Rambla 9a+ (5.15a) and Estado Crítico 9a (5.14d). Patxi has again crushed climbing standards by being the first person to onsight 8c+ (5.14c). Continued...
Dec, 12, 2007 – Sport Climbing Now Officially Recognized by Olympics
In an effort to reach a younger audience, the IOC has officially recognized climbing as a sport. Continued...
Dec 3, 2007 - Fred Rouhling Climbs New Extreme Route
Renowned French climber Fred Roughling has just climbed the new mono pocket test piece Salamandre. The 32m route includes an 8A+ (V12) boulder problem at the 15m mark with 8b+ (5.14a) climbing to the anchors.
Continued...
Nov 27, 2007 - Patxi Climbs Two 9a Routes in a Day
Most climbers would be content with redpointing a single 9a (5.14d) route in their lifetime, but not Patxi Usobiaga. This week the 27 year-old Spaniard climbed La Rambla 9a+ (5.15a) in a total of eight attempts spread over a period of a few years and during the same day redpointed Estado Crítico 9a (5.14d) on his second go.
Continued...
Nov 27, 2007 - New Russian Piolet D'Or Award
Once considered the most prestigious award for mountaineering achievements, the French Piolet D'Or has been at the centre of controversy due to a recent series of questionable choices. Feeling the sting of these recent decisions, the Russian climbing community has now opted out of the established Piolet D'Or and created a new and controversial mountaineering prize.
Continued...
Nov 22, 2007 – Probable First Canadian Woman to Climb 5.13 Trad
On Nov 11, Jasmin Caton redpointed the classic 5.13a crack line, Fallen Arches near Salt Lake City, Utah. Continued...
Nov 19, 2007 – Doyle in Fine Form With First 5.13d Onsight
Mike Doyle is enjoying his stay at the Red River Gorge. Having climbed many of the difficult routes in the area, this weekend Doyle onsighted one of the few remaining Gorge testpieces. Swingline 5.13d is located at the Dark Side and involves sustained 5.13a climbing to a very difficult extended boulder problem. Continued...
Nov 12, 2007 - Patxi Onsights Another 8b+
Patxi Usobiaga (ESP) is redefining the notion of difficult climbing with his recent onsight of Rage the Antonio Machine in Spain 8b+ (5.14a).
Continued...
Have
News?? Send it to us. |
