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Gripped e-Mag, Issue 11, Full Edition |
November, 2007 |
In This Issue
Welcome to The Gripped e-Mag |
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Ian Caldwell on White Wedding 5.13d, Smith Rock, OregonThe Gripped e-MagWelcome to the November issue of the Gripped e-Mag! Published monthly and full of interesting articles on climbing personalities, destinations, techniques and new gear that you won’t find in the magazine, the Gripped e-Mag is FREE and a great complement to Gripped Magazine.Register now to receive the Gripped e-Mag and you will be entered for a draw to win an Optimus Stella+ stove valued at approximately $100 (see sidebar for more details)! Please feel free to forward this e-Mag to any other climbers that would find it interesting! If you have any comments or suggestions please contact us at info@gripped.com.
Gripped Interviews Randy LeavittWhile most climbers would be content with establishing a handful of new routes during their career, Randy Leavitt’s insatiable first ascent drive compelled him to almost single-handedly develop numerous climbing areas. Some of his most significant accomplishments include the development of the Virgin River Gorge and Clark Mountain. We caught up with Randy and discussed new routes, BASE jumping and surfing.
Chris Sharma and Randy LeavittYou’ve been climbing for over 30 years with significant ascents in almost every discipline of climbing. How have you managed to stay motivated for so long? Does climbing still hold your interest?Climbing has stayed interesting for me because it is so varied. Originally, I was into bouldering and big wall climbing. Later it was mountaineering and trad climbing. Then came sport climbing. It is like having five sports in one. Many of the younger climbers associate your name with difficult sport climbing but you are also a phenomenal trad climber. Do you prefer one style of climbing to the other?I prefer sport climbing, but I also love trad climbing. I find sport climbing more challenging for me, personally. For a while you got seriously involved in BASE jumping. Can you explain the sport and what attracted you to it? Are you still BASE jumping?I was attracted to BASE jumping because I had heard that guys had jumped El Capitan. I think it was 1980 that I thought a logical idea would be to climb El Cap and jump off as a means of descent. After all, in those days we used to throw our haul bags off with a parachute. I did Excalibur and jumped off in 1981. I did the sport for four years, but I don’t BASE jump any more because it is too dangerous for how much personal reward there is for me. Unlike climbing or surfing, it doesn’t take a lifetime to get better at falling. You spent a significant amount of time climbing in a Yosemite and putting up new routes like Lost in America VI 5.9 A4 and Scorched Earth VI 5.11 A4+. What attracted you to big wall climbing?Big wall climbing was my most natural type of climbing. It was the first type of climbing that really inspired me. You almost single-handedly developed some of the most significant sport climbing areas in America (VRG, Clark Mountain, etc). How did you manage to find these areas? How do you recognize their potential?Exploring has always been fun for me. For every jackpot I’ve hit, I have been on dozens of wild goose chases. It helps to be able to visually recognize certain types of rock and what might be good features to climb. Where do you get the energy to clean and equip so many lines? Anyone that has ever bolted a route knows it requires a huge amount of time and effort and yet you’ve managed to develop numerous climbing areas. Do you ever sleep?I got pretty efficient at bolting new lines. The first key is recognizing the good lines to focus on. Despite the rumour, I do sleep. I used to drive extensively to find and develop new areas. I always figured that I would rather drive or hike to a really good climb, rather than climb at a more convenient mediocre climbing area. Surfing or climbing, which is harder? If you had to choose between one or the other?Surfing is definitely harder. The rock doesn’t move and you can always go back to the same climb. Can we talk about tow-in surfing now? For years you owned one of the most impressive private climbing gyms in California. Care to describe that facility? Whatever happened to it?That gym was worth every dime and hour invested in building it. It was roughly the size of a four car garage with a nine ft ceiling. I think it had 5,000 holds and inset custom pockets. I set redpoint routes up to 160 moves long. Fortunately a good friend, Rudy Hofmeister, bought the house and gym in 2000 and we still climb there together. As you’ve gotten older, how have you managed to stay fit and avoid injury?Climbing is such a good sport for you as you get older. It helps maintain strength and flexibility without harming your body. There is nothing like it that I have seen. It has been a huge positive force in my life. There is a poorly kept secret that Sharma is working an abandoned project at Clark Mountain, an area you originally developed. Do you know anything about the route?Yes, that was a project I bolted in 1992. It was clear to me, at the time, that it would be 5.15, so I moved left to work on 5.14s. It was the most dramatic line on the cliff, which is why I bolted that line before bolting any others on that cliff. I am stoked Sharma is working on it. He is loving it. Are you working on any new areas at the moment?I am always working on new areas. Next vacation. When and where?Next vacation is tomorrow to the North Shore of Oahu for surfing and kite surfing. Winter swells are almost here.
Better BetaSpecificityA basic training tenent states, “practice what you want to improve.” For example, if you plan on running a marathon, focus on long runs rather than short track workouts. This concept also holds true for rock climbing. The training necessary to dominate the plastic differs from what you need for success on the rock. How many times have you seen climbers in the gym crushing problems with huge slopers and fat pinches only to melt once they get on real stone? These individuals obviously don’t lack strength, but because they’ve trained their muscles to be efficient on a specific hold and style of movement they encouner difficulties when moving to real stone. To avoid this kind of performance melt down and achieve real transferable skills, read on.
Katie Brown on Where Heathens Rage 5.12c, Lake Louise, AlbertaHold shapesAlthough the sloper and fat pinch grip positions are important on plastic, they do not easily transfer to what you encounter when climbing outside. Most rock routes and difficult boulder problems are challenging because the holds are small, not because they are slopey. Even when you encounter slopey grips outdoors they’ll often have small features, which you end up crimping. The point here is to train the grip you anticipate encountering on your projects. If your goal is winning this season’s Tour de Bloc, focus on slopes, fat phone book pinches and huge lateral moves. If, however you plan on sending a project on stone, choose holds matching what’s found on your route. Most likely they’ll be crimps, pockets and thin pinches. AngleWith the exception of the Red River Gorge and handful of other climbing areas, most rock routes are less steep than what you’ll encounter indoors. This poses a problem because the techniques and muscles you hone on plastic are optimized for terrain different from what you’ll likely encounter. Although some of this indoor strength is transferable, you’ll see greater gains by sticking to an angle more closely reflecting the routes and problems you plan to climb. Intensity and LengthIf you’re planning on climbing 30m enduro fests, why are you training eight move boulder problems? Focus your time on routes and problems of similar length and pacing to your projects. If the routes you climb have distinct cruxes interspersed with easier climbing, try and mimic this pacing in your training. Conversely, projects with continuous moderate levels of difficulty require longer sustained training sessions.
End of Season Rock TripsWith the weather getting colder and the climbing season coming to an end, here are three rockclimbing destinations to help you squeeze a few more days out of the year.
Robert Caspersen on Cryptic 5.8, Joshua Tree, CaliforniaRocktown, West VirginiaThe wonderful sandstone at Rocktown provides excellent bouldering opportunities during the fall season. Located approximately one mile from the trailhead, Rocktown contains enough clustered boulders ensuring a relatively crowd free experience. Free camping exists in the area and there are numerous reasonable motel options in nearby La Fayette. For more details go to: Joshua Tree, CaliforniaLocated in a national park about two hours from Los Angeles and containing over 5000 routes, J-Tree is one of the most user-friendly traditional climbing areas in North America. The climbing takes place on Monzonite domes and consists of gear-eating cracks, runout slabs and the occasional multipitch adventure. An established bouldering circuit offers a break from the rope climbing and allows you to explore the surreal landscape. Camping exists in the park with a 14 day maximum stay and several motels outside the park provide comfortable accommodations. For more details go to: Cochise Stronghold, ArizonaApproximately one hour southeast of Tucson, Cochise Stronghold provides excellent adventure climbing opportunities on gorgeous granite domes. The climbing is primarily on traditional multipitch routes and usually includes some exposed face climbing. For a less commiting adventure, there is a good circuit of moderate bouldering near the parking area. For more details go to:
BootyMega Light – Black Diamond
Black Diamond has been making the Mega Light in various forms for decades - a testament to the tent’s usefulness. The classic floorless structure weighs just 1.27 kg and delivers unparalleled space and weather protection for up to four people. Because of its floorless construction, you can pitch the Mega Light over any surface and not agonize about abrading the floor. You can also walk in with your boots, cook without worrying about spillage and even bring the dog inside without damaging the tent. Unfortunately, this convenience limits the tent’s usefulness in buggy conditions but when you only need protection from the elements, the Mega Light rules. The design is deceptively simple with only a single pole and a pyramid-like tent, making setup a breeze. Simply stake out the corners, unzip the front door, insert the carbon fiber pole and extend it until the fabric is taut. You can easily vary the ventilation and weather protection by raising or lowering the pole and re-staking the tent. Although originally intended as a lightweight mountaineering shelter, the Mega Light is also at home during extended road trips and is the perfect group tent for relaxing, drinking coffee and catching up the climbing gossip. |
Contest of the MonthNow you can win a brand new Optimus Stella+ stove valued at approximately $100, by subscribing to the FREE Gripped e-Mag.Simply forward us your email address to be entered for the draw that will take place on Nov 26, 2007. Enter as often as you like, just as long as you provide a new valid email for a friend that would also like to receive the Gripped e-Mag for each new entry. Offer closes Nov 25, 2007.
Congratulations to Rob Frost. As the winner of the Oct contest, he is the proud owner of a new pair of ABC Ascenders valued at approximately $100.
We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Publication Assistance Program (PAP) and the Canada Magazine Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage toward our mailing and project costs.
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