Gripped e-Mag // Issue 9

Photo by Bissell Hazen

Gripped e-Mag, Issue 9, Full Edition	July, 2007
In This Issue Welcome to The Gripped e-Mag Gripped Interviews Renan Ozturk Better Beta – Five Redpointing Tips Three Classic Climbs in the Canadian Rockies Booty	Subscribe to the Gripped e-Mag e-Mag Archive Contact Gripped Subscribe to Gripped Magazine Visit Gripped.com
Tom Adams on the North Face 5.11+ of Castleton Tower, Castle Valley, Utah The Gripped e-Mag Welcome to the July issue of the Gripped e-Mag! Published monthly and full of interesting articles on climbing personalities, destinations, techniques and new gear that you won’t find in the magazine, the Gripped e-Mag is FREE and a great complement to Gripped Magazine. Register now to receive the Gripped e-Mag and you will be entered for a draw to win a SMC Capra ice axe valued at approximately $100 (see sidebar for more details)! Please feel free to forward this e-Mag to any other climbers that would find it interesting! If you have any comments or suggestions please contact us at info@gripped.com. Return to top Gripped Interviews Renan Ozturk As one of a new group of talented alpine climbers, Renan Ozturk is quickly amassing an impressive list of difficult and bold first ascents and repeats. On a recent trip to Alaska, Ozturk and his long time climbing partner Cedar Wright, added five new long and committing rock routes exemplifying their go-for-it climbing style. We caught up with Ozturk as he was preparing for a trip to the Karakorum. Renan Ozturk, Self Portrait How did you initially get involved in climbing? I became inspired above the tree line in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. You have a degree in biology, but before finishing school, you traveled to Nepal to learn the language and culture. What drew you to that region? The high Himalayas and Tibetan Buddhist ideologies drew me to the region. You and regular partner, Cedar Wright, have numerous impressive climbing ascents. What makes you two such a strong team? We trust one another and have the ability to scrap hard to make things happen. We also both pursue an artistic lifestyle while resting from climbing. What is your most memorable climbing experience? The first free ascent of the Southwest Pillar of the Minaret V 5.12 R in the Bugaboos is pretty memorable. With so many bold ascents, was there ever a time on a route where you thought might not make it back? I’ve never lost the plot to that extent, but there was a point coming down The Beholder V 5.12 on The Eye Tooth in Alaska where Cedar and I felt like crying for our mommies. We had to chop our rap line in half with 3,000 ft of wall still below us. What are your top three safety tips for anyone venturing into the backcountry this summer? Bring some bail cord and extra nuts. Watch out for electrical storms. Hydrate! What got you interested in art? Living outside in beautiful climbing landscapes like Indian Creek the Bugs, Joshua Tree and Yosemite. Climbing or art. If you had to choose, what would it be? They are so linked for me at this point. I don’t think I’ll ever give up the constant balance. In the end, climbing is an art form. If you could live anywhere in the world, where would you choose and why? That’s a really burly question. At this moment I find inspiration for art and climbing by constantly moving. Any future climbing plans? Right now we are heading to the Karakorum with plans for Trango, Shipton and Nameless Tower. I also hope to explore some ancient caves near the Tibetan border in the Mustang kingdom of Nepal this upcoming April. Return to top Better Beta Five Redpointing Tips Paul Ko working his redpoint skills at Heart Creek, Alberta Successfully redpointing a difficult a route requires physical effort, mental commitment and a systematic approach. Many climbers are strong enough and have the right attitude but approach redpointing with the wrong tactics. To redpoint difficult routes you must break the climb down into smaller sections and focus on mastering these manageable bits. Here are five more tips to help you send this summer’s project. Work the Crux Many climbers try to redpoint a route before adequately mastering the crux. Although this approach occasionally results in a speedy ascent, the more frequent outcome is a fall at the crux and a climber too tired for another attempt. Take the time to learn the moves and be confidant you can execute them during the climb before wasting energy trying to redpoint the route. Work the Redpoint Crux Sections of a climb that seem easy when you’re working the route bolt-to-bolt may actually become the redpoint crux. It’s important to consider how tired you’ll be after climbing the crux so practice climbing these “easy” sections when pumped. Many climbers fail on their redpoints because they’re not adequately prepared for how difficult the route will feel in its entirety. Linkage Try and link sections of the route when you are working the climb. This replicates the pump and fatigue you’ll actually encounter during the redpoint. Linking progressively longer sections boosts your confidence, improves your fitness and almost assures final success. Special Gear If the route is long and at your limit, a thin redpoint rope and lightweight harness can mean the difference between success and failure. Appropriate redpoint gear also includes easy-to-clip draws, extra sticky and precise performance shoes, rubber-covered kneepads for critical knee bars and even special drying agents for your hands. Stack the odds in your favour and use all the tools at your disposal. Stick Clip If you encounter a difficult section and are unable to climb to the next bolt, don’t waste time and energy falling endlessly at the same spot. Consider using a stickclip to get the rope into the next bolt and work the moves with a top rope and tension. This is more efficient and ensures you quickly master the sequence. Return to top Three Classic Climbs in the Canadian Rockies The Canadian Rockies have more long rock climbing opportunities than any other place in Canada. With the prime alpine rock climbing season in full swing, here are three moderate classics representing the best of the Rockies’ experience. Ha Ling Northeast Face on Ha Ling Peak 5.6, 12 Pitches A relatively short approach combined with excellent moderate climbing and grand position make this a mandatory Rockies route. The route now sports much aging fixed gear so make sure to back-up any dubious pieces. For more information check out page 322 in Bow Valley Rock by Chris Perry and Joe Josephson Red Shirt on Yamnuska 5.8+, 8 Pitches This classic moderate line up Yamnuska involves intricate routefinding and sustained climbing in the 5.7 range with excellent exposure. Due to its popularity, the initial opening pitches are somewhat polished but should not detract from the overall climbing experience. A must-do route for any Rockies climber. For more information check out page 181 in Bow Valley Rock by Chris Perry and Joe Josephson Brewer Buttress on Castle Mountain 5.6, 13 Pitches Located on Castle Mountain in Banff National Park, Brewer Buttress is a Rockies classic that should not be missed. The climbing is mostly 5.5, varied and leads to unusually stunning positions for such a moderate route. For more information check out page 74 in Selected Alpine Climbs by Sean Dougherty Return to top Booty Zerraport – Keen By combining the breathability of sandals with the support and foot protection of traditional shoes, Keen creates an innovative approach sandal for climbers. The Zerraports’ adjustable nylon webbing upper locks your foot into a molded EVA footbed for incredible comfort and control over uneven terrain. Adding to the Zerraports performance, Keen uses an aggressive sticky outsole for excellent traction on loose terrain and slippery rock approaches. The single most innovative feature on the Zerraports however is the rubber toe-cap. This simple design keeps your toes from sliding out of the sandal and protects your foot from rocks, braches and brambles. With this feature, Keen elevates this sport sandal from the multitude of simple beach cruisers to genuine all-terrain footwear. During less demanding conditions, the rear Velcro strap is removable, letting you use the Zerraports like conventional slides. For warm weather approaches, kicking around town and wearing between routes at the local climbing gym, the Keen Zerraport sandals are an excellent choice. Return to top	Contest of the Month Now you can win a brand new SMC Capra ice axe valued at approximately $100, by subscribing to the FREE Gripped e-Mag. Simply forward us your email address to be entered for the draw that will take place on August 31, 2007. Enter as often as you like, just as long as you provide a new valid email for a friend that would also like to receive the Gripped e-Mag for each new entry. Offer closes August 30, 2007. Enter your email or a friend’s email HERE Congratulations to Adam Conner. As the winner of the June contest, he is the proud owner of a new Faders Sum belay device valued at approximately $85. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Publication Assistance Program (PAP) and the Canada Magazine Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage toward our mailing and project costs.
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