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Gripped e-Mag, Issue 7, Full Edition |
May, 2007 |
In This Issue
Welcome to The Gripped e-Mag |
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Giovanni Quirici on the first free ascent of the West Pillar of Trango Tower, Pakistan.The Gripped e-MagWelcome to the May issue of the Gripped e-Mag! Published monthly and full of interesting articles on climbing personalities, destinations, techniques and new gear that you won’t find in the magazine, the Gripped e-Mag is FREE and a great complement to Gripped Magazine.Register now to receive the Gripped e-Mag and you will be entered for a draw to win a Simond Bumper Helmet valued at approximately $85 (see sidebar for more details)! Please feel free to forward this e-Mag to any other climbers that would find it interesting! If you have any comments or suggestions please contact us at info@gripped.com.
Gripped Interviews Steve McClureAt 36 years old, Steve McClure shatters the myth that sport climbing is a game for youth. Just look at his tick list. With over 500 routes of 8a (5.13b) or harder, including routes in the 9a (5.14d) range, McClure continues to climb at the upper limits of the sport and may actually be getting better with age. For example, on a recent climbing trip in Spain, he onsighted an 8b+ (5.14b) while installing the draws. We caught up with Steve to discuss onsighting, training and his new book on sport climbing.
Steve McClure on Magnetic North 8c+ (5.14c), Kilnsey, UK.Last month you onsighted 14a while installing the draws – very impressive. How did you approach this route? Did you think you would just install the draws and go for the redpoint or did you consciously go for the onsight?I went for the onsight. Might as well – at that grade I expect to have a chance. It’s all got to work well though, sometimes it does and sometimes you cock it up. If I blow it then I’ve not lost much. Sometimes you know you won’t get the onsight so it makes sense to work a route from the start and give yourself the best redpoint chance. But if you never go for it you’ll never get it. Why do you think the distinction between doing routes while placing the draws and doing routes with the draws pre-placed has blurred?It’s not blurred, it’s just that an onsight is valid with them either in or out. With them out, it’s harder – sometimes a lot harder, sometimes only a little. Hence you can’t really boast about having placed them on lead. You’ve climbed 500 routes at 8a (5.13b) or harder and onsighted a large percentage of those routes. Seems like you have the onsighting part of the game mastered. What are your top three tips for onsighting?I’ve onsighted or flashed 302 routes 8a (5.13b) or harder but I’ve certainly not mastered onsighting. Performance is all relative. The great thing about climbing is that the limits are never reached, so you can’t master the sport. Tips for onsighting? Look where you’re going before setting off, take only what you need and think only of the climbing and not the falling off. You’ve also climbed a couple of 9a (5.14d) routes. That’s pretty solid in the redpointing department. Do you have any redpointing tips?I think redpointing is the hardest discipline of all. It’s mentally very stressful, going to the same place over and over and perhaps only getting two good goes. Waiting an hour or more between attempts and then having to take a few days off to maximize your next chance is very draining. In Britain few people are really into this game now. Tips? Enjoy the process, don’t just look for closure. At 37 years of age, you continue to climb at the top end of the sport. How do you do it? Training? Genetics? Luck?Thirty-six but still getting better! It’s all down to motivation. Climbing isn’t just about being young and super fit, otherwise I’d be stuffed! Genetically I’m skinny and light, though a little short, and luck plays a big part (though you make your own luck). It’s just a matter of regularly getting out there – for every bit of bad luck you’ll get some good luck. My biggest strength is tenacity. Hanging in there till the end and burning up all my energy in one go. Great if I get it, not good if I need another attempt! What’s your typical workout? Do you periodize?In the summer it’s all outdoor climbing with usually one day on and one day off. Every day is pretty tough. Periodization is probably useful, but the problem is climbers always want to be the best at every discipline, all the time. They want to climb their hardest boulder problem one day, sport routes the next day followed by a day of traditional climbing. This is a bit unrealistic. During the winter I spent about seven weeks mainly bouldering and strength training to try and sort out my feeble body. I followed this with some power endurance for a few weeks and it seemed to have a better effect than just randomly mixing and matching my training. It’s kind of obvious really, but it takes a little discipline. Do you have any general training tips for our readers?The only really important tips are:
You recently co-authored a new training book with Adrian Berry, Sport CLIMBING + published by Rockfax. Who would benefit most by reading this book and why?This book turned out pretty well even if I do say so myself. Not that I can really take the credit. Adrian did loads of the text as well as all the layout and photography, which is what makes it special. It’s a book that you can just flick through and look at the pics or pour over and absorb every detail. It’s also light-hearted, unlike the typical text heavy journals. This book is great for anyone getting into sport climbing, either with or without other climbing experience. It’s not about training to get fit, it’s about getting the most out of what you’ve already got – you just don’t know you’ve got it yet! There is so much more to being a good climber than just having strong fingers. Although you’re a talented all-around climber, you’ve focused on sport climbing. Why?Naturally, I get scared. I don’t regard serious danger as important to my sport. I do enjoy playing a little with fear on traditional routes. It focuses the mind. For me, however, there is a difference between fear and real danger. For example, I enjoy attempting a hard route that can be protected but requires strength and skill to get the placements. The enjoyment is in assessing the danger and optimizing the variables so you have the best chance of success. If a route is just downright dangerous (loose rock or no protection), then I’m not so interested. There is a lot of stuff going on in my life, and no specific route is worth that much! The UK is famous for gear climbing but the sport climbing is limited. How do you deal with this situation?You deal with it! OK, we could do with more sport, but I consider myself lucky. I’ve been climbing hard now for over ten years and there’s still stuff to do. Perhaps not as much as in Spain, but way more than many other places. In Britain there are three or four brilliant cliffs within a two-hour drive of my house – a few which are truly world class. What are your favourite climbing areas?Spain has everything I want from a climbing destination – fine weather, awesome scenery and brilliant climbing. I prefer France as a country – greener, more impressive scenery and better bakeries. I even love England for its variety. However, if it’s all about the climbing, in a sport style, it has to be Spain. Any future goals?Two projects in England, both above 9a (5.14d). Keep getting stronger and climbing harder, and most importantly, keep enjoying it.
Better BetaSafer BoulderingMany climbers mistakenly assume bouldering is free of danger and risk of injury. After all, bouldering takes place close to the ground, the avalanche hazard is low and there’s no need to bivy if you don’t get to the top. So what can go wrong? Plenty. Bouldering is the only aspect of climbing that almost always requires regular ground falls. Think about it. With sport climbing, you may take longer falls but the gear and an attentive belayer ensure a nice soft catch. As long as you have good gear, the same also holds true for trad climbing. In situations with poor protection, the tenet that the leader must not fall takes over. This is not so with bouldering. With an emphasis on powerful technical movement, success on most boulder problems usually comes after numerous attempts. Depending on the problem, the ground falls you incur during these efforts can leave you with injuries ranging from a bruised heel to a broken ankle or worse. Follow these easy steps to minimize the risk:
Four Little Known European Sport Climbing DestinationsSweeping limestone, great weather and a seemingly endless number of routes make the classic European sport climbing areas a tempting destination for the travelling climber. Unfortunately, many of these areas also suffer from crowds, car break-ins and polished rock.If you’re interested in a more pristine climbing experience, consider a trip to one of the many excellent lesser-known areas in Europe. Here are four alternatives:Greece
Meteora, Greece.With all the recent press Kalymnos has received, it’s easy to forget the incredible climbing opportunities available on the Greek mainland. Climbing areas like Meteora provide stunning traditional multi-pitch climbing while the surrounding limestone cliffs (Theopetra, Pyil, Mouzaki) present excellent sport climbing options. For more details go to: CroatiaThe limestone climbing and scenic coastline make Split an excellent venue for the visiting climber. Four major crags, Brela, Omiš, Marjan and Markezina greda are within an easy drive and supply enough diverse climbing to satisfy the needs of any climber. For more details go to: SloveniaThe picturesque area of Osp, located in south west Slovenia, contains three excellent crags – Osp, Mišja Peč, and Črni Kal. With close to 600 routes, mild weather and wonderful rest day activities, Osp is a top choice for the vacationing climber. For more details go to: Belgium
Veronique Homans on l'envie folle 6b (5.10c), Freyr, Belgium.Most climbers know Belgium for its chocolate and beer but this small nation just north of France also contains some fine sport climbing. With over 600 routes spread over 15 different crags, Freyr is a great alternative to the more conventional climbing areas in Europe. For more details go to:
BootyNeedle 45 Pack – Arc’teryx |
Contest of the MonthNow you can win a brand new Simond Bumper Helmet valued at approximately $85, by subscribing to the FREE Gripped e-Mag.Simply forward us your email address to be entered for the draw that will take place on June 10, 2007. Enter as often as you like, just as long as you provide a new valid email for a friend that would also like to receive the Gripped e-Mag for each new entry. Offer closes June 8, 2007.
Congratulations to Mark Bramble. As the winner of the April contest, he is the proud owner of a new Tendon 9.2 mm Master 70 m rope valued at approximately $150.
We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Publication Assistance Program (PAP) and the Canada Magazine Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage toward our mailing and project costs.
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