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Gripped e-Mag, Issue 4, Full Edition |
January, 2007 |
In This IssueWelcome to The Gripped e-Mag |
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Enjoying prime ice climbing conditions.The Gripped e-MagWelcome to the fourth issue of the Gripped e-Mag! Published monthly and full of interesting articles on climbing personalities, destinations, techniques and new gear that you won't find in the magazine, the Gripped e-Mag is FREE and a great compliment to Gripped Magazine.Register now to receive the Gripped e-Mag and you will be entered for a draw to win a Nicros Croc Blok training board valued at approximately $35 (see sidebar for more details)! Please feel free to forward the e-Mag to any other climbers that would find it interesting! If you have any comments or suggestions please contact us at info@gripped.com. 
Gripped Interviews Mike DoyleMike Doyle is one of Canada’s most talented climbers. At 29 he has flashed 5.14a and coached the very successful Canadian Junior National Climbing Team. Currently on an extended road trip, we caught up with him in Hueco after he successfully climbed Lucifer 5.14c, in the Red River Gorge.
Mike Doyle on Lucifer 5.14cAge, height, weight and years climbing?29, 5'5", 140 lbs and 15 years. You coached the highly successful Canadian Junior National Climbing Team during their many international victories. Besides the great coaching, what made this team so successful?The many international victories all came from one person – Sean McColl. He’s a big part of what made the team so successful. Sean showed the others that it’s possible to win on the international scene. We’ve had great finishes in the past; Kathryn Embacher placing third in 1996 and Nels Rosassen placing third in 2000 to name two, but those were exceptions rather than the rule. Now more is expected from the team and I believe Sean was a big part of that. I think another reason Canada has so many talented young climbers is the long winter season. Seriously, when you have six months of the year to climb indoors, you’re bound to get strong. However just having strong climbers doesn’t translate to competition success. Canada’s achievements come from the coaches’ preparation prior to the comps and the focus on becoming a close-knit team. It blows me away how cohesive the team gets each year. Do you have any advice that could help the rest of us with our climbing?If you want to improve, never be satisfied with where you are. Be proud of what you have accomplished but not satisfied. With numerous 5.14 ascents and hard onsights, the old saying “those who can’t do, teach and those who can’t teach, teach gym” doesn’t seem to apply to you. Can you tell us about some of your more memorable climbs?Trust me, it applies to me. I consider myself a better coach than a climber. My most memorable climbs are the ones where I surprised myself. I try and forget long-term projects where I start to almost hate the route. For me, flashing Replicant 5.13c in Skaha or Millenium 5.14a in Maple Canyon were some of my most memorable climbs. I couldn’t have flashed Replicant without Marc Bourdon spewing beta, nor could I have flashed Millenium without Sean McColl first walking up the route and then giving me running beta. I just remember being so surprised at the top of both climbs. Unlike many dirt bag climbers, you managed to climb hard while working a full time job as a programmer. How did you pull it off?What can I say? I’m a gym climbing bum. I started climbing outside but switched to training indoors when I began competing. Going through university I climbed indoors three times a week, and if the weather was good, climbed outside on the weekend. Of course the weather wasn’t very good for six months of the year. Most of my strength and endurance gains were achieved when I lived in Kelowna over 10 years ago. Since then I honestly think I’ve only become a smarter climber – at least I hope I’m a smarter climber. Either that or grades are getting really soft. It also helps that the company I’ve been employed by for the past six years, Idelix Software Inc, provides very flexible work hours and is setup so I can work using a laptop on the road. What are some of your favorite cragging areas and why?I like Smith Rock not so much for the climbing but for the history and the scene. I have great memories of Skaha. The climbing is fun and it’s where I grew up. I like the Red River Gorge, I think the climbing there is just super fun. I like Ceuse for the climbing, the view and yes, even the hike. You’re currently on an extended road trip and I hear you’re cleaning up some old projects. Care to comment?I’ve been on a roadtrip with my girlfriend Audrey Sniezek since October 1, 2006. We started in Smith Rock and I was psyched to redpoint Badman 5.14a, a route that I had worked on and off for almost two years. After Smith Rock we spent two months climbing in the Red River Gorge. While I was there I got the first ascent of a route called Lucifer 5.14c. It took me six weeks to redpoint mostly due to battling stupidity, skin, temps and fatigue. Lucifer was really hard for me and I couldn’t imagine a better way of starting the road trip. Hopefully I can climb that well at every area we visit. What other climbing areas are you planning to visit?I am flying to Australia in mid-February for six months. Arapiles, Grampians and The Blue Mountains are all on the list. After Australia, I’m really not sure. I’d like to get back to Thailand, check out Kalymnos, Gorge du Tarn and Rodellar. Any future projects or goals?No current projects but I would absolutely love to get strong enough to onsight a 5.14a. Of course it’d have to be soft and suit my style but I’d be pretty psyched if that happened.
Better BetaIce Gear MaintenanceWith winter in full swing and the daylight hours getting longer, many of us look forward to enjoying what’s typically the height of the ice climbing season. Before venturing out on your next ice climbing adventure, spend some time thoroughly inspecting your gear. Ice climbing is completely dependant on your equipment for upward progress and a tool or crampon failure during a climb can be disastrous. Ice ToolsTake the time to carefully inspect all the components of your ice tools.
CramponsAs with your ice tools, your crampons are subjected to immense abuse. Long talus approaches and scratching your way up mixed climbs is serious punishment that may weaken or damage this critical equipment.
Ice ScrewsWhen the ice is hard and brittle, placing ice pro quickly can be a lifesaver. Keeping your screws in top form will help you get the gear in when you need it.
Airport Tips for Travelling ClimbersWith security at airports becoming tighter, travelling climbers need to be prepared if they hope to avoid delays and possible confiscation of equipment. Here are some tips to help you get to your climbing destination.DocumentsGone are the days of travelling to the US from Canada with simply a driver’s license as your i.d. In today’s world, the only sure way of entering a foreign country is with a valid passport. If your passport has expired you will need to schedule enough time to get a replacement. This includes obtaining the forms, having them notarized, submitting them for confirmation and waiting for your passport to arrive. This could take as little as 10 working days, but realistically you should schedule at least a month. Make sure you also inquire about travel visas. Many exotic climbing destinations have restrictions on foreign visitors so don’t confirm a flight and travel plans until you have your visa documents finalized. Carry-on luggageThe safest approach is to carry as little as possible. Most airlines allow a single piece of carry-on and British airports rigidly enforce this rule. If you plan on carrying anything other than the essentials be prepared for a significant search. The airlines currently allow toiletries in small volume bottles (100 ml or less) as long as they are packaged in clear resealable plastic bag. A better solution is to purchase your toiletries at your destination. Not having to carry these items will speed your airport journey immensely. If you are bringing a laptop, iPod or any other electronic equipment, be prepared to demonstrate that it works. Seemingly innocuous items like swiss army knives, metal tweezers, and oversize metal key chains may also be confiscated so plan accordingly and check these items with the rest of your luggage. Ice climbing gear (axes, screws, crampons) and most metal rock climbing gear (including big bags of cocaine like chalk) will also not pass as carry-on. Save yourself the body cavity search and check this equipment with the rest of your luggage. More rules can be found at these Canadian and US sites: Security CheckIf you have not traveled recently, you’ll need to prepare yourself for the more thorough screening that is now the norm. To prevent excessive searches, avoid multiple layers of oversized clothing. Shoes that can easily be removed will also speed your journey through security. Check your pockets for any metallic items that can set of the metal detector and don’t forget to remove any oversize belt buckles. On a recent trip we saw an American film crew that was wearing nothing but t-shirts, shorts and flip-flops and carrying only their camera equipment (everything else had been checked). Having been searched numerous times during their travels, they now distilled their gear to the absolute minimum and cleared security in record time.
BootyThe Croc Blok Training BoardFrom Nicros
The new Crock Blok from Nicros incorporates a series of innovative features to help you stay strong during the winter season. Unlike many traditional training boards, the 14" wide Croc Blok can be mounted almost anywhere. Nicros offers the board with a conventional texture as well as their No-tex finish. Our testers preferred the No-tex finish as it allowed for longer training sessions with less skin pain. You can mount the Croc Blok in two positions – one has a positive jug on top and the other uses a sloper. Stronger climbers preferred the sloper position while beginners gravitated towards the jug setup. During our use we noticed that the deep pockets were more comfortable when the board was set in the sloper position. The shallow pockets work well regardless of how the board was set. Due to its small size you can mount the Croc Blok on a larger plywood board with different holds and create an excellent versatile mega training board. |
Contest of the MonthNow you can win a brand new Nicros Croc Blok training board valued at approximately $35, by subscribing to the FREE Gripped e-Mag.Simply forward us your email address to be entered for the draw that will take place on February 15, 2007. Enter as often as you like, just as long as you provide a new valid email for a friend that would also like to receive the Gripped e-Mag for each new entry. Offer closes February 12, 2006.
Gripped Presents
We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Publication Assistance Program (PAP) and the Canada Magazine Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage toward our mailing and project costs.
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