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Gripped e-Mag, Issue 1, Full Edition |
October, 2006 |
In This IssueThe Gripped e-Mag |
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There is no better time than the fall season to enjoy the spectacular climbing at Indian Creek, UT.The Gripped e-MagWelcome to the premier issue of the Gripped e-Mag! Published monthly and full of interesting articles on climbing personalities, destinations, techniques and new gear that you won't find in the magazine, the Gripped e-Mag is FREE and a great compliment to Gripped Magazine.Register now to receive the Gripped e-Mag and you will be entered for a draw to win a new Mammut Revelation 9.2 mm 60 m rope valued at approximately $200 (see sidebar for more details)! Please feel free to forward the e-Mag to any other climbers that would find it interesting! We hope you enjoy the first issue. If you have any comments or suggestions please contact us at info@gripped.com. 
Seven Questions with Josune BereziartuJosune is universally regarded as the strongest female climber in the world. She told Gripped what it takes to climb at her standard and discussed the differences between male and female climbers.
Josune Bereziartu demonstrating how to "climb without prejudice"What is your top 10 list of the hardest routes you have climbed?
Height? Weight?I'm 1.74 m and weigh between 51-52 kilos (for onsighting or worked stamina-long routes) and 53-54 kg (bouldering). Why do you think so few women are climbing at the same standard as you?One reason could be that when I used to compete, I was almost the tallest woman in the field and I think that the extra height is definitely an advantage. I also had the advantage of having the facilities to develop strength and the correct power-to-weight ratio. Many women have a difficult time achieving this so women in competitions focus on stamina because on comp routes power is not as critical a factor. Many women view climbing as a men's sport. Modern routes are overhanging and physical; the opposite of the techy style that women prefer. You need to have the right attitude about how much and how intensely you train, as well as when you climb. You also need to climb without preconceived ideas of what is possible. Routes are for everyone, so women need to climb without prejudices about our abilities. In Spain there is a word that defines this idea: desparpajo. It means ease and confidence. You will often see women in climbing gyms not trying a problem because they think they can't do it. They limit themselves before they even try the problem. This is rooted in society and is a very complicated matter. I have been invited to discuss women in sports and my conclusion is always the same. Attitudes in sports are always a reflection of the society. I view myself as a climber, not as a female climber and my advice to all climbers would be to go and climb without prejudice. Do you see yourself continuing with hard sport climbing and bouldering or will you shift your focus in the future?This summer I climbed long multi-pitch gear routes in the mountains and had a great time. In mid-July I went with my husband, Rikar Otegui to Chamonix to climb the Cassin route on Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses. This was my first relatively serious alpine experience. Wow! We had good luck with the weather and it was an incredible experience for me. I'll try more alpine routes in the early future. Is there anywhere you haven't been but would like to visit?There are so many places to visit, especially those that you only can visit in summer time like Ratikon and Wendestock in Switzerland or Dolomites in Italy, so many... What advice would you give men who wanted to climb harder?I would say that you should always climb with complete commitment. When I focus on a project I put all my energies into it. It doesn't matter if the project is 5.12a or 5.14c, if you're giving it 100 per cent. Ultimately, climbing routes is less fulfilling than knowing you did your best. What advice would you give to women that wanted to climb harder?Don't build barriers by saying "I'm a woman and I have less power." Focus on improving your weaknesses rather than using them as excuses. Climb with respect, but also enthusiasm, freedom, and a lack of prejudices.
Better BetaHow to Safely Clean AnchorsThreading and cleaning the anchors on a sport climb is dangerous. Unfortunately, most methods are complicated and require more effort than redpointing the route! Systems like double daisy chains, long girth hitched slings and extra locking biners often result in a rat's nest rivaling a big wall belay. The simplest solutions, however, are often the best. For your latest project, consider using this version of a Petzl recommended method:
In the next issue we will explain how to thread and clean sport climbing anchors that are too small to allow a bight of rope to be threaded.
Ten Best Fall Cragging DestinationsWith the fall season here, many climbing areas are in prime condition. The combination of cool crisp days and dry weather are perfect for climbing. Here's our list of the top ten autumn cragging destinations:
Climbing in New England with autumn foliage in full colourRed River GorgeThe Red is one of the best sport climbing areas in North America and has a surprising amount of moderate traditional climbing to help mix things up. The rock at the Red is unique for both its steepness and highly featured nature. Rarely will you encounter height dependant moves or stopper cruxes. In fact, the climbing may initially seem "easy" (as most of the routes do not seem to have distinct cruxes) but the mind numbing pump you will have as you are trying to clip the anchors will change your opinion - this is the land of endurance climbing. Great conditions can be expected until mid November when the weather becomes too cold and wet. Camping opportunities are plentiful as are the motel and cabin rental options. Joshua TreeWith over 5000 routes to keep you occupied, J-Tree is a wonderful place to learn how place gear and hone your slab climbing skills. J-Tree is primarily composed of single pitch cragging and by being selective you can pretty much ensure that every route you climb is a five- star classic. The surreal Monzonite domes and ubiquitous Joshua trees create a landscape akin to a sci-fi movie. Combined with a classic desert environment (warm days and cold nights) you are almost guaranteed to have great climbing all through the fall, winter and spring. New River GorgeThe New River Gorge's solid sandstone has some of the finest trad and sport climbing in the East. Unlike the highly featured rock and endurance fest climbing found at the Red River Gorge, the New is better know for its more technical and bouldery climbing style. The rock is often characterized by sections of small pocket and edges interspersed between blank bulletproof rock. Traditional climbing exists at all grades and involves solid protection in gorgeous sandstone corners and splitters. With a climbing season that extends into mid-November and numerous rest day opportunities (rafting, mountain biking, and even BASE jumping during Bridge Day), the NRG is a great spot to climb in the fall. The GunksOnly about a 1.5 hour drive from America's largest city and a day's drive from Canada's eastern provinces, the Gunks seamlessly blend a little bit of the old with the new for traveling climbers. Routes can initially seem intimidating due to the steep nature of the rock, but luckily the roof sections often contain huge wrapper jugs. Gear placements consist mainly of nuts in cracks and cams placed in horizontals (tied off ridged Friends originated in the Gunks) and are surprisingly secure due to the solid nature of the rock. Bouldering at the Gunks can be just as compelling and has been extensively developed by a strong East coast crew. With its vast range of moderate well-protected traditional climbs and a surprising amount of bouldering for the pad people, the Gunks in the fall is a magical place. BishopWith the incredible amount of high quality bouldering as well as moderate sport climbing at Owens River Gorge, the Bishop area is a great place to climb during the fall season. Unlike many areas where the climbing tends be similar at all the local crags, Bishop provides enough diversity to satisfy almost any climbers' needs. You can find user-friendly bouldering at the Happy and Sad boulders, powerful and technical highball test pieces at the Buttermilks and aesthetic isolated adventure at the Druid Stones. Sport climbing at Owens consists of off-vertical to gently overhanging square cut edges with the huge density of great climbs in the 5.10 range. Rest day activities can include running, hiking, mountain and road biking in the beautiful Sierras as well as relaxing at one of the many hotsprings. Smith RocksThe birthplace of American sport climbing is also home to some of America's hardest routes and countless classics. Although climbing at Smith may not longer be in vogue with the elite community, there are enough routes at more conventional standards to keep the rest of us occupied for a very long time. Climbs are vertical to gently overhanging and emphasize technical hand sequences and footwork. An incredible setting, a supportive park system and the huge selection of routes put Smith in our top ten list for fall cragging destinations. Indian CreekIndian Creek's incredible splitter cracks are so unique, climbers from around the world hone their pure crack climbing skills there. Temps in the summer can be outrageously hot, but come fall, conditions are perfect for sampling some of the finest crack climbing in the world. The consistency and length of most routes require a rack consisting of multiple cams of the same size and creates challenging climbing for those not experienced in pure jamming. For intermediate to advanced crack climbers, Indian Creek may well seem like one of the best traditional climbing areas in North America. YosemiteWith its stunning granite walls, Yosemite is considered by many to be the crucible of American climbing.. If the history isn't enough to draw you, then just consider the climbing to be had on classic routes like the Nose, Astroman and the Salathe Wall, not to mention the myriad of small one-pitch cragging spots. Although usually considered more of a spring and early summer destination, fall climbing in Yosemite can be incredible. The usual crowds have dissipated and many routes that you would be queuing up for during the summer are now easily available. With the daylight hours being shorter and the risk of colder temps at the rim, you will have to be a bit more strategic about which big routes you attempt, but conditions at shorter, lower areas like the Cookie Cliff, Reed's Pinnacle and the Apron will usually be perfect. Red RocksMuch too hot to really enjoy in the summer (except perhaps for some of the long routes in the canyons) Red Rocks is transformed into a climbers' paradise come fall. Located just outside of Las Vegas, Red Rocks is unique in that it can offer something for just about every climber. Sport climbers can revel in the easily accessible climbing at the first few pullouts, while those wanting a bit more adventure should try one of the many classic long routes in the numerous canyons. Finally, no trip to Red Rocks would be complete without a few days spent sampling Vegas's many charms. SkahaIf you were blindfolded and airdropped into Skaha you would never believe that you were still in Canada. Located in the interior of BC and about a five hour drive from Vancouver, Skaha has the feel of a high a desert environment. Highly featured rock that ranges from off vertical to gently overhanging creates climbing that seems custom made for beginner to intermediate climbers. Throw in a good selection of traditional lines to compliment the many bolted classics and you have one of Canada's finest moderate climbing areas.
BootyOutdoor Research Contact Gloves
With cooler temps on the way, climbers venturing in the mountains will once again need to consider which gloves to wear. Tying in, belaying, rappelling, clipping gear and even using your ice tools can be done more efficiently with the right hand wear. OR realizes that climbers need to strike a balance between dexterity, warmth and durability, and the Contact gloves merge these conflicting qualities into one great cold weather climbing glove. Built with a stretchy weather resistant soft shell fabric and lined with a warm quick drying fleece, the Contacts are ideal for mild sub zero (Celsius) conditions and are supple enough to easily manipulate any climbing gear. To further increase the warmth of the Contacts and to protect your hands when ice climbing, OR has also included articulated EVA foam filled panels on the backs of the hand and fingers. The palm and finger material, however, is good old leather. It seems that very few of today's miracle fabrics come close to matching leather's balance of sensitivity and durability. If you are looking for a pair of warm, durable and weather resistant gloves, check out a pair of OR Contacts. |
Contest of the MonthNow you can win a brand new Mammut Revelation 9.2 mm 60 m climbing rope, valued at approximately $200 by subscribing to the FREE Gripped e-Mag. Simply forward us your email address to be entered for the draw that will take place on October 31, 2006. Enter as often as you like, just as long as you provide a new valid email for a friend that would also like to receive the Gripped e-Mag for each new entry. Offer closes October 30, 2006.Enter yourself or a friend HERE
Gripped Presents
We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Publication Assistance Program (PAP) and the Canada Magazine Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage toward our mailing and project costs.
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