>> December 2003 - January
2004
Scotland Goes Dry
Some Scottish climbers have taken the step of applying mixed climbing
techniques to bolted dry rock routes. Fission D10 (D for Dry Tool) was their
first route to make climbing rock with tools an end in itself. Dave Muir
revisited an old slate quarry containing the Cave, one of the largest roofs
in Scotland. It has a relentless aid crack which is too dirty and loose
to make a good rock climb.
After training on plastic and in a quarry never used for rock climbing Dave
Muir was able to send Welcome to the Machine M9, 009 M9, Pema M9+ and Die
another Day M9+ in Italy, all on his first redpoint. When he arrived back
in Scotland he headed for the Cave. Seventeen bolts later, the wildly overhanging
33m crack was ready for action. The rock is slate and almost totally devoid
of useful foot edges, making it outrageously strenuous and with nowhere
to warm up nearby. The send of Fast and Furious took three days and the
route was rated D11.
Too Fast Too Furious is the more difficult extension. It stretches to over
42m, passing 25 bolts at a continuous 60 degree angle. Muir worked and redpointed
the extension in isolation, jugging up to the lower-off each time to conserve
enough energy to work the extension efficiently. It took five full redpoint
attempts with two days full rest between attempts before Muir finally wobbled
leashless into the groove after 28 minutes of upside-down climbing. Too
Fast Too Furious is speculatively D12, but whatever the grade, it is definitely
hard and long.
Master of All Trades
Few climbers can balance the sometimes contradictory demands of climbing
at a high level in all of the different types of climbing. Japanese climber
Yuji Hirayama bucks this trend and moves easily between high end sport climbing,
trad and big walls. This spring Hirayama completed a longtime project at
Futagoyama, a limestone crag three hours north of Tokyo. The route, christened
Flat Mountain, which is a literal translation of Hirayama, is 33 m long
and gently overhanging, with the first 23 metres weighing in at 5.12c. This
leads into an 11-move crux boulder problem estimated at V11/12, followed
by a final section of V8 climbing, all involving technical footwork. Hirayama
feels that Flat Mountain could be 5.15a since it took him close to 20 days
to complete, even though it suited his style of climbing.
In the fall, Hirayama switched gears and arrived in Yosemite, the bastion
of trad and big wall climbing. Hirayama warmed up by onsighting the13-pitch
Uncertainty Principle 5.13a, and the 11-pitch Psychedelic Wall 5.12c at
Sentinel Rock, before embarking on his objective: an onsight of the Huber
brothers’ testpiece Golden Gate, a 41-pitch monster weighing in at
5.13b. In a performance that mirrored his 1998 attempt to onsight the Salathe
Wall, Hirayama came within a hair’s breadth of completing the task,
failing to onsight only two of the pitches. Then, in late October he went
on to lead every pitch of El Nino, onsighting a 13b route. While he took
two falls during his attempt, he redpointed those pitches immediately afterwards.
Little Yosemite
Europe is best known for the quality as well as quantity of sport
climbing areas on offer, with world class destinations such as Ceuse, Buoux,
Siurana and Frankenjura. High quality trad climbing areas are often overshadowed.
One such place is the Arco Valley of Italy, nicknamed little Yosemite for
the similarity in the shape of the valley and the quality of the cracks.
This fall, visiting Swiss climber Didier Berthod completed an old project
that became a new test piece. Green Spit is a 12m crack, which traverses
a roof and varies in width from fingers to fist. Significantly, the crack
was originally bolted, but Berthod chose to remove all but one of the bolts,
which he left in for the belay. Berthod feels the climb would correspond
to 5.14a in Yosemite. He has climbed 13b in Yosemite and many hard European
lines. Berthod commented that Europeans grade cracks at a higher level than
Americans.
Zodiac Freed
While Hirayama was busy repeating free lines on El Cap, Alex and
Thomas Huber were working on freeing yet another old aid line. El Capitan’s
Zodiac has long been a goal of the Huber brothers, and after a summer of
intensive work on the route, which saw the two set a new speed record. The
Hubers managed to free the climb this fall after three days. No word on
how difficult the climbing is, but the climb will probably be in the upper
5.13 range. With this, their sixth hard free line, the Hubers have added
more difficult long free lines to El Capitan than anyone else.
European Big Wall
Across the pond, another pair of brothers have also caught big wall
fever. Iker Pou (best known for third ascent of Action Direct) and Eneko
Pou have freed Zunbeltz, an A4 aid line at the Naranjo de Bulnes in western
Spain. The route, which took three days to climb and is rated at 5.14a,
is adventurously protected. The Pou brothers decided not to add any bolts
to long unprotected sections. The climb is the second in their Seven Walls
project. Inspired by the Seven Summits and looking for something different
to do, the brothers will try to climb a big wall on each of the seven continents.
Basque Phenomenon
For the last few years, Spanish climbers in general and Basque climbers
in particular have been making waves, with the result that some of the best
sport climbers are now coming from Spain rather than France. The latest
evidence for this theory is Patxi Usobiaga, the young Spaniard who first
turned heads last year with a trio of 5.14d redpoints in rapid succession.
Recently, Usobiaga turned up at World Cups and the World Championship and
promptly landed on the podium ahead of seasoned competitors, including the
reigning World Cup champ and points leader Alex Chabot. But Usobiaga’s
latest is the most impressive of all. He onsighted Pietra Murata 5.14a,
a 70 move endurance testpiece at Massone, Arco. The feat earns him membership
in an exclusive club including the likes of Yuji Hirayama, Steve McClure
and his fellow countryman Ramon Julian.
Correspondent: Andre Cheuk
Hard New Routes
in the Howsers and Beyond
This summer saw the release of not one but two new guidebooks to
the Bugaboos. The second edition of Bugaboo Rock by Randall Green and Joe
Benson (The Mountaineers) and The Bugaboos by Chris Atkinson and Marc Piche
(Elaho) came out only a couple months apart. All this attention resulted
in more climbers visiting the park. The Bugaboos have always been a popular
alpine rock destination where most climbers come intent on repeating the
handful of classic routes. However, this year motivated teams were tackling
some of the harder big routes like All Along the Watchtower (VI 5.12-) on
the west face of North Howser Tower and Power of Lard (V 5.13) on the east
face of Snowpatch Spire. Each of these testpieces saw multiple ascents but,
unfortunately, all with some aid. Neither of these two high-end free routes
have actually had a second free ascent. Jonny “Red” Walsh of Golden,
BC climbed both these routes with different partners: Paul McSorely on Power
of Lard and Jeff Relph on All Along the Watchtower. On Power, he freed all
but a 5.12 and 5.13 pitch and on Watchtower, he managed to get everything
clean except the crux (5.12-) which he fell off of on second.
Also, three significant new routes were established this summer as well
as a major first free ascent. Chris Geisler (Vancouver) and Dave Edgar (Revelstoke)
made the long awaited second ascent of the Catalonian Route on the massive
south face of South Howser Tower. The Catalonian route was climbed in 1983
by Joan Cabau, Edward Burgada, Antonio Masana and Joan Wenciesko. It is
located between the classic Beckey-Chouinard Route and the beautifully symmetrical
Minaret Pillar. Geisler and Edgar not only made the second ascent, but also
managed to free the whole route on-sight. They climbed the 20-pitch route
in a day getting back just at dark. Two pitches were 5.11, which Geisler
described as “very spicy.” On the crux pitch, he ended up using
all his R.P.’s to protect the insecure climbing.
The first new route of the season was established on the previously unclimbed
northwest face of Wide Awake Tower in the Pigeon Feather group on the backside
of the Howser Tower massif. This 400m Rostrum-like pillar of splintered
granite had been looked at and talked about but avoided due to its remote
and overhanging nature. Sean Isaac (Canmore) and Matt Maddaloni (Squamish)
worked on the route over six days first aiding the hard pitches then cleaning
them and finally leading them free. The 11-pitch route contained six pitches
of 5.11 crack climbing. Maddaloni, the stronger granite climber, sent the
harder pitches including the semi-bolted first pitch and the overhanging
thin hand to fist corner of the third pitch, both 5.11+. They named their
route Wild Fire (V 5.11+) after the numerous out-of-control forest fires
that blazed all around the Bugaboo range during their stay.
Near the end of August, the Bugaboos along with all BC Provincial Parks
were evacuated and closed due to extreme forest fire hazard from the hot,
dry summer. Camped in isolation on the remote backside of the Howsers, Nick
Martino (Kansas) and Renan Ozturk (Rhode Island) were unaware of this closure
and went on to climb two new routes during their stay. As a warm-up, they
made another addition to the Pigeon Feathers by sending the unclimbed northwest
rib of East Pigeon Feather Peak. Their Ride the Snafflehound (III 5.10)
went in six pitches at 5.10. After an aborted attempt to free the Southwest
Pillar Route (VI 5.10 A3) on the Minaret Pillar due to “very scary
climbing in slammed shut seams” (they got six pitches up the 20-pitch
route and freed up to 5.11+/5.12-), they moved onto their second new route,
which climbed a steep chimney system between the Catalonian Route and the
Minaret Pillar. Their 20-pitch Soul Cinders V 5.11 C2 was climbed in a 14
hour push camp-to-camp and had three 5.11 pitches including a stunning 60m
finger crack. They finished their trip off with a rapid ascent of All Along
the Watchtower and already are planning on returning next summer to attempt
the route’s second free ascent.
Correspondent: Sean Isaac
Busy Dry Summer Yields Long Free Routes
Another busy summer is slowly coming to a close on the West Coast. Despite
late season fire restrictions, one of the driest summers on record produced
more climbable days than most could remember, allowing plenty of opportunities
for climbing, working new projects and swimming at the lake. When the dust
had finally settled, many projects had been wrapped up.
As most would agree, the Squamish Chief is far from being climbed out and
major new routes tempt those willing to explore and get dirt on their hands.
Early in the summer, locals Matt Maddaloni and Mateo Antonelli teamed up
to establish Yukon Gold 5.12+,A0 on the wild Zodiac Wall. This undertaking
tackles cracks and corners off the right end of Astro Ledge for six pitches
to the summit, passing the highly visible White Pillar. All pitches except
for the second, which is the crux, are 5.11- or easier. Presently graded
5.12+/A0, this crack was partially aided using fixed pins on the first ascent
and still awaits a free redpoint. Despite this, Yukon Gold is arguably an
easier way to the top of the Zodiac Wall than The Calling.
Local aid ace Chris Geisler has also completed an old project, The Temptation
of Saint Anthony A3, in the same vicinity as Yukon Gold. It begins on the
Forgotten Flake, right of the Alaska Highway, and continues in a strikingly
direct line up the entire wall to share the last two pitches of Yukon Gold.
Straightforward clean aid and piton placements ascend all pitches except
the fourth where Geisler resorted to wearing rock shoes to navigate through
perilous hook placements. This lead took 17 hours over two and a half days
and should not be attempted by those with a short attention span. Farther
over in the Western Dihedrals of the Chief, ACMG guide Kris Wild, a man
definitely not afraid to get dirty, has unearthed another fine multi-pitch
climb. Millennium Falcon 5.11a, begins just right of Rutabaga and features
fourteen pitches of predominately 5.10 climbing to the very summit of the
Chief. Watch local climbing shops for topos as the final cleaning is still
in progress. Also in the Dihedrals, Colin Moorhead and Dave Edgar ticked
the first ascent of Brothers in Arms 5.12c. As a new variation to Freeway,
it continues directly above the Daylight Crack, tackling some very steep
and exposed corners. Bolt and gear protected pitches necessitate a mixture
of crack and face techniques that lead into the middle of the crux pitch
on The Big Slick. The pair finished up this climb, joined Freeway and climbed
to the top of the wall. Also of note is Moorhead and partner Katherine Fraser’s
freeing of the section of Planet Caravan that was previously considered
unfreeable. The two bypassed the bolt ladder with a slabby, bolt-protected
5.11c arête then rejoined the regular route for a full, free ascent.
Finally, Andrew Boyd teamed up with Damien and Elise Kelly to extend Milk
Run to the top of Tantalus Wall. Midnight Run is 10 pitches, mostly of 5.11,
with a single crux pitch of 5.12b near the summit. This sustained, traditional
climb is of high quality and adds yet one more classic, hard route to this
already popular section of the Chief.
Cheakamus Canyon is back in the news but this time it’s not for hard
repeats. A group of motivated Vancouver climbers tackled an obvious wall
next to the parking area, scaled off a ton of debris, and established an
excellent, new crag. Close to 15 new climbs from 5.10a to 5.12d have gone
in, the base has been well terraced and the climbs are receiving multiple
ascents daily. The popularity of Cheakamus Canyon continues to increase,
as does the variety of climbs available. See Gary Foster’s web site
www.meingh.com for topos and route information to the whole area.
Trouble still haunts the lower Malamute and this summer’s activities
didn’t help matters. Despite closures at the cliff, two climbers on
two separate occasions fell and were injured adjacent to the train tracks
and had to be evacuated by emergency personnel. BC Rail was involved in
both incidents and has since bolted signage to the wall adjacent to Clean
Crack. Climbers are asked to refrain from climbing at this cliff to avoid
taking the access problem to the next, highly undesirable level. Highway
construction continues in the Cheakamus Canyon and, at present, it looks
as though none of the crags will be directly affected. How the parking situation
will unfold as the new roadbed is paved remains unclear. Leviticus Rock
is slated for blasting and Climber’s Access Society of British Columbia
director, Jesse Brown, is in the process of preparing a proposal for BC
Parks to allow movement of the roadbed to help save this amazing cliff.
Some bouldering areas adjacent to this part of the highway will most likely
be in jeopardy as well.
Correspondent: Marc Bourdon
Canada’s Hardest
Route
Lions Head and the Escarpment have seen an increase in hard sends
this season. In September, Daniel Martian made the second ascent of the
45m long vertical 5.14a, Titan.
The most significant send of the last few seasons, however, was Sonnie Trotter’s
first free ascent of a project to the left of the B-52 aid route once called
the Millenium Roof, and first bolted by John Weir many years ago. This incredible
route, which Trotter named Forever Expired, overhangs more than 20m in a
35m pitch, and was described by Trotter as “possibly the hardest thing
I’ve done.” Trotter has sent Necessary Evil 5.14c, so one can
come to one’s own conclusions about the grade.
According to Trotter, the route itself has a section of “5.12 to a
V12 problem followed by a rest and v8-ish long moves with three finger pockets
in horizontal roofs demanding extreme body tension to keep the feet on.”
In order to pull off the send Trotter had to skip two bolts even though
he was close to the ground. He pulled tendons in both hands on his final
redpoint. In short, those willing to try the route had better be physically
and psychologically prepared for a severe struggle.
It’s been three years since Trotter revisited his home crags to put
in Titan, which only received its second ascent this year. Will Escarpment
climbers have to wait another three years before another 14 goes up?
Canadian McColl
World Youth Champion for Second Year in a Row
Bulgaria was the location of this year's World Youth Climbing Championships
held September 19-21 2003. The town of Veliko-Tarnovo played host to over
350 young climbers from 35 countries, including 18 from Canada. With a 9
or 10-hour time difference most of the team decided to arrive in Bulgaria
on September 14, giving them plenty of time to overcome jet lag and acclimatize
to the new environment. The organizing committee for the competition arranged
for the team to be accompanied by two translators while in the host city
and the team managed to tour the town, learn some history and even pick
up a few Bulgarian words.
After qualifiers five Canadians moved on to the semis the following day.
For the semi-finals the organizers went back to the traditional onsight
format of competition. Sean McColl was the only Canadian to move on to finals.
He was also the only competitor to flash the semi-final route, despite the
fact that it was attempted by competitors in both his category (16-17),
and the next older category (18-19). Sarah Austin (team captain, West Vancouver)
also delivered an inspiring performance moving from 26th place after qualifiers
to finish in 10th place after semis. Unfortunately only eight competitors
made it through to the finals.
The speed climbing competition started on the same evening as the semi-finals
and all the Canadian competitors took part. Once again the Canadian crowd
was cheering the loudest but this year there was significant competition
from the teams from Germany and New Zealand. Unfortunately, no Canadians
placed in the top eight. Sean McColl withdrew from the speed climbing to
concentrate on the difficulty event, so he could not defend his speed title
from
last year.
For the finals Sean was slotted to climb last in his category so the team
knew how far he had to go in order to win. Sean stepped out of isolation
looking confident and focused and started up the route with the crowd cheering
loudly. About halfway up the wall Sean paused and then proceeded to climb
right out some rather difficult holds while everyone else in his category
had moved left around the side of the wall on better holds. Once he managed
to get back on sequence he appeared quite tired. Never one to pass up a
dramatic moment, Sean fought his way past several more holds and then jumped
to grab a hold that was the current high point on the route before falling.
The crowd was quiet, not knowing if that was enough for the win or if Sean
was in second place. Within 40 seconds of coming off the wall, the
scoring display showed that indeed that was enough and Sean had won again.
For the second year in a row he was the world champion and the Canadian
anthem was played during the awards ceremony.
Complete results can be found on the Canadian Competition Climbing/Competition
d’Escalade Canada web site at http://www.cec.homestead.com.
Correspondent: Mike Doyle
