>> April - May 2003
Gritstone Desperates
The frigid winter temperature have proven ideal for England’s
fabled gritstone. A new contender for the hardest grit route, Adrian Berry’s
Blind Vision E10 7b bested the current champ Equilibrium E10 7a by one letter
grade. The route is actually an extension of an old Jerry Moffat problem,
Slingshot V12. On his redpoint, Berry bouldered to the rest ledge which
is the end of Slingshot and had his
harness and reduced rack thrown up to him. The upper section at roughly
5.13a, is insecure and bold with only a miniature cam and a couple of nuts
between the ledge and the top. Due to the insecure nature of the protection,
Berry employed two ropes, each with its own belayer, in the hope that his
pro wouldn’t pull in the event of a fall. When asked, Berry stated
that "leaving the ledge was a lonely experience." As with any
first ascent, the grade is subject to consensus.
Equally impressive is Ben Heason’s flash ascent of Paralogism E7 6c.
This was only the third ascent since Simon Nadin first put up the route
back in 1980. Heason decided to attempt the flash after studying Seb Grieve’s
redpoint in the video Hard Grit. Even more impressive is Heason’s decision
to forgo ropes or even pads and spotters, choosing instead to solo the route.
Witches Brew
Iker Pou, best known for the third ascent of Action Direct, has put
up the first V14 in Spain, at Larraona, one of the premier Spanish bouldering
areas. Sorginexte is the sit down start to the four move problem Variant
V11, which Pou had originally put up in only a day. The additional four
moves for the sit down start however, took Pou a further two years of work.
The moves were so difficult that initially Pou couldn’t even get off
the ground. The name Sorginexte, which loosely translates as House of Witches,
was given because the opening moves were so difficult, seemingly requiring
witchcraft to get off
the ground.
Flower Power Down Under
After a quiet winter, Western Australian Nathan Hoette has burst
back on to the Oz climbing scene with what is likely one of
the hardest routes Down Under. Flower Power 5.14b is a power endurance route
boasting ten hard moves in a row leading to a long throw, finishing up a
headwall on slopers. Requiring eight days of effort with only three attempts
per day due to the small sharp holds, Hoette guessed "it’s probably
the hardest thing I’ve done." Hoette only felt comfortable giving
Flower Power the hefty grade of 5.14b after running a lap on the crag testpiece
Demon Flower solid 5.13d, feeling that Flower Power is indeed two grades
harder. In addition, Hoette also added Wild Orchids and Eye of the Tiger,
both 5.13c, with the latter needing only two tries for the redpoint.
Fortress of Dispute
Tommy Caldwell has completed his long term project Flex Luthor at
the Fortress of Solitude in Colorado. The tight-lipped Caldwell won’t
comment on the grade of the 120 foot line but did allow that Luthor is "definitely
harder than Kryptonite."
While Caldwell was busy sending Luthor, Adam Stack of Colorado dispatched
Kryptonite 5.14c/d. More noteworthy however, is the youngster’s continued
insistence that French climbing star François Legrand had chipped
a hold on the route, despite Mike Call (who filmed Legrand) and Dave Pegg’s
(Rifle guidebook author who checked the alleged hold personally) defense
of Legrand. The youngster contentiously calls his redpoint, "Kryptonite
au naturel."
British Team Wins
12th Piolet d'Or
Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden have won the Piolet d'Or 2002, the prestigious
French prize for the most important alpine achievements of the year. They
received the award for their first ascent of the Central Couloir on Siguniang's
North Face, in China. The two encountered difficulties up to ED+ VII/AI6/M6
along the 1500m route, and spent six nights on the face and two days descending
the untouched North Ridge. Other nominees were Dean Potter (USA) for his
speed solo ascents of Cerro Torre's SE arête (Compressor Route) and
Fitzroy's West Face (California Roulette) and WSW Face (Supercouloir), Jean-Christophe
Lafaille and Alberto Innurageti (France and Spain) for their first ascent
and descent of the South Face and East Ridge of Annapurna (8091m); Pierrick
Keller, Benoit Chanal, François Dupety and Yann Bonneville (France)
for their first ascent of the South Face of Huandoy Sud (6130m); Peru, Hasler,
Harvey and Schaeli (Switzerland) first ascents of Fior di Vite, NF of Arwa
Spire Central (6193m) and Capsico, NF of Arwa Spire West, and Jules Cartwright
& Rich Cross (Great Britain) demanding first ascent of NW Ridge of Ama
Dablam (6856m), Nepal.
Correspondent: Andre Cheuk
Sean McColl Disqualification
Vancouver youth climbing sensation Sean McColl placed first this
summer in both the difficulty and speed climbing events for 14-15 year-olds
at the Junior World Climbing Competition in Canteleu, France. After the
competition, he was disqualified for failing a routine urine sample test.
His urine sample contained pseudoephedrine, a mild stimulant which is banned
by the International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC). As a result,
the ICC has removed Sean’s name from the results of the difficulty
event and he has received a formal warning, however, he is not banned from
ICC competition. Sean was taking Claritin Extra (a common over-the-counter
medication) for his allergies; information he had provided on the Doping
Control Form before providing his urine sample. Sean explained "My
parents and I did not know that Claritin Extra contains a stimulant until
after we had received the urine test result. Had I known I would not have
taken it but taken regular Claritin instead. Nevertheless I am accepting
full responsibility for this error." Many Canadian sports fans will
remember when famed Canadian rower Silken Laumen was disqualified from the
rowing World Championships for the use of a
similar over the counter decongestant.
Canadians Rule
the Ouray Ice Competition,
Repeats of M-hard Testpieces,
M11+ Flash by Slawinski
How is it possible? Yet, another banner year for new ice and mixed
routes in the Canadian Rockies. The season has been marked by a remarkable
quantity of hard repeats and a long awaited resurgence of hard, alpine first
ascents.
Spring 2002 saw the release of the long awaited 4th edition of Waterfall
Ice by Joe Josephson. As per usual, the year following the release of the
new guidebook spurred an abundance of new route activity. There have been
no less than 30 new alpine, (see News Gripped v5.1) ice, and mixed routes
of varying style that have been added to the range since October 2003. Many
of these new routes include high levels of difficulty, directed by grand
vision and completed by an overwhelming plethora of talented climbers.
The absence of an early season snow pack was the key to the success for
many of these longer routes. Among the proud ice lines added are VSOP 400m,
M4 WI5+ on Mt Bogart, by Raphael Slawinski and Jason Thompson and the second
ascent of Cryophobia 250m+ V M8+ WI5+ done as mainly an ice route, aptly
labeled Cryophilia. Sean Isaac and Louis-Julien Roy added yet another M10
to the range with the addition of Miller Swiller M10- 15m, to the Killer
Pillar area of Stanley Headwall. Slawinski, the notorious sandbagger, then
completed Fruit Cake M8++ which climbs out of a huge cave 50 m to the left
of the Killer Cave. Well aware of Slawinski’s tendencies, I would recommend
taking your M10 skills to that route as well.
The fitness gained through working these hard routes seemed to pay off for
Canadians at the Ouray Ice Festival. Ouray didn’t know what hit it
when the Canadians arrived in the second week of January. The level of climbing
in the ice park hit the roof during the days prior to the January 18 competition.
The Canadians went on to take Top Five on the men’s side and Top Two
in the Women’s, with Slawinski and newcomer Shelley Nairn taking top
prizes. In fine fashion Raphael once again was the last competitor of the
day and once again was the only climber to onsight the M9- competition route.
The next five male climbers all fell from the ice roof that topped the 45
degree rock section. The women competed on the same route as the men and
Nairn came out of nowhere beating out the favored Kim Csizmazia, as well
as half of the men’s field. Following the competition Slawinski and
Rob Owens both quickly sent The Goldline M10-, a candidate for the Ouray
area’s hardest M-route. The festival was a great success and reportedly
the best ever.
Winter/Spring 2002 saw the addition of Musashi M12, by Will Gadd, Ben Firth
and Rocky Mountain Horror Show (RMHS) M11+, by Grant Meekins and Dave Thompson,
which became the world’s latest, greatest and hardest mixed routes.
Both routes climb out of the massive cave that is situated behind Panther
Falls on the Banff-Jasper highway. Inspired by the grand vision of their
friends responsible for these difficult routes, many of Canada’s top
M-climbers set their sites on these testpieces. Shortly after his return
from Ouray, Slawinski overcame broken holds and the final ice roof of Musashi
to become the fourth climber to send the world’s hardest M-route. Less
then a week later Grant Meekins, belayed by Slawinski, also sent Musashi.
Slawinski then pulled off what very well may be the single most impressive
effort to date in the world of M-climbing. After climbing Musashi again,
"just for fun," Slawinski got on Rocky Mountain Horror Show and
flashed the route with running beta from Meekins. Ben Firth, who was there
to encourage both climbers, claims, "it was one of the best displays
of mixed climbing I have ever witnessed."Owens made an additional ascent
of RMHS only a few days later.
It appears that the long Canadian winters are paying off for those that
are willing to suffer through them. This season has proved that Canadians
are in fact at the top of the winter climbing game with the same names doing
both hard alpine routes and hard M-routes. What does the future hold for
this diverse group? Bigger caves? Steeper alpine walls? The future is wide
open and waiting for definition.
Correspondent: Rob Owens
| Men | WOMEN |
|
1. Raphael Slawinski (CAN) |
1. Shelly Nairn (CAN) 2. Kim Csizmasia (CAN) 3. Kristie Arind (USA) 4. Sue Nott (USA) |
A Hot New Mixed
Area:
The First Ascent of Euphorie (M9-)
Québecers usually recognize St-Alban as a small village in
Portneuf, outside of Québec City. For years it’s been well know
by cavers as a training site whose overhanging cliffs are used for practising
vertical techniques. As well, rock climbers regard the village as an incredible
sport-climbing site that offers up to 60 different quality bolted and non-bolted
routes. However, until recently it has been almost unknown to mixed climbers.
I have known this place as a warm little town along the gorgeous St-Anne
River canyon. A place where I have executed many caving rope techniques,
a place where I camped and shared many meals around bonfires with good friends
throughout my teenage years. I used to guide groups for the Québec
Spelunking Society in the Cascatelle Cave, which juts out of the river canyon
and in the St-Casimir Cave, just five minutes away from St-Alban. As I entered
university, I relinquished caving for other sports that offered greater
challenges. This is when I discontinued my relations with the St-Alban River
Canyon and started to pursue my passion for ice climbing.
An ice/mixed climber living in Québec has a multitude of choices.
If you are looking for ice, the Montmorency Waterfalls, the Portneuf area,
the Charlevoix area, the Gaspésie region and the Côte-Nord
are extraordinary sites. If you are looking for steep pillars, hanging daggers
and mixed routes, Pont-Rouge is going to fulfill all your requirements.
If you want wild alpine style mixed climbing, then the Gros Bras in the
Parc-des-Grands-Jardins is for you. But if you are looking for the new style
of very steep and hard short mixed routes to tackle with leashless tools
and light boots equipped with heel spurs, then you were out of luck. Up
until now.
During the years, I’ve always thought that St-Alban could be an awesome
mixed and ice climbing site. However, I never bothered with it before this
year. Hearing about friends going there for dry-tooling during the summer
and fall, I decided to revisit my old love. I had been training for a few
months already for an ice climbing trip so I decided to make my way up there
last November with my partner Fred Maltais and friends, Chris and Peewee.
As soon as I looked at the overhanging cliff, I saw it with totally differently
eyes. I could now see so many possibilities, routes that I had only dreamt
of climbing. I became euphoric and frenetic about tackling these wild lines.
Drips were forming here and there, water was running, giving rise to small
pillars. As excited as I was, I realized that by January more ice would
have formed and the timing would be better.
In January Fred and I had been climbing for weeks, and felt strong and confident.
A few days of rest after a long ice-climbing trip to the Canadian Rockies
and were ready to go. Not being able to get a drill in time, but armed with
picks, jumars and a crowbar, we rapped two lines to clean them and put some
natural gear in the rock. We then tried toproping one of the most aesthetic
lines. At first it seemed impossible. On the second day, however, we achieved
a leashless top rope redpoint. JP Villemaire came to our aid by lending
us his drill for our third day working on the climb.
I will celebrate January 19, every year at my old friend St-Alban, for that
is the day on which I sent the route. I thought that leading the route wasn’t
going to be any harder than top roping it, but I was very wrong. It took
me three tries to make it, one sans dragonnes, another and then finally,
I succeeded. I had to use my leashes, the previous two days of climbing
had killed my forearms. Euphoria, the perfect name for this new route. With
so many other unclimbed and very steep mixed lines, I wonder how long St-Alban
will stay unknown by mixed climbers?
Correspondent: Guy Tremblay
John Clarke
John Clarke was a leading explorer of BC's Coast Ranges from the
1960s until recently. He died of a brain tumor January 23. John spent many
weeks in the mountains each year, and made many short and long trips. These
included hundreds of first ascents and many first ski or foot traverses
through different ranges. In the 1970s particularly, many of these were
solo trips. John and his adventures were the subject of a 1995 award-winning
documentary, "Child of the Wind." He wrote and spoke extensively
about his journeys. John was an honorary member of the Alpine Club of Canada
and of the BC Mountaineering Club. In July 2002 he became a member of the
Order of Canada, one of the few mountaineers so honoured. After the death
of his friend Randy Stoltmann in an avalanche in 1994 John devoted tremendous
time and energy to the Wilderness Education Program. He spoke to thousands
of school children about the importance of wilderness, and introduced hundreds
to the outdoors and wilderness through various trips and events. A focus
of this largely volunteer work was the proposed Stoltmann Wilderness, based
in the Elaho Valley northwest of Squamish. John leaves wife Annette Lehnacker
and son Nicholas, as well as other family. He also leaves a myriad of friends
and companions. John was famous for his innumerable friends from all walks
of life, and was one of the cheeriest people you could hope to meet.
