Yukon
Ibex
Valley - Boulders fields - lots of big granite rocks spread about
over a mile or so at the foot
Ibex Mountain - V0- to V6 and more to come. Site of annual Ibex
Valley Bouldering Festival every year where we draw international climbers
- a Swiss lad put up the V6 problem - Swiss Cheeze and there is harder stuff
to come. Across the Ibex River on the other side of the valley is a canyon
with granite (dee-lux) walls.
Whitehorse Rock Gardens - municipal climbing park in the City of Whitehorse
which provides for muncipal rec program climbing programs of all levels,
school climbing programs and rec sport climbing. Routes from novice through
interemediate up to expert 5.12 plus. Boulders
also. We are talking granite (dee -lux). Two guidebooks ( dated and first
attempts - available).
McIntyre Creek - adjacent to City of Whitehorse - granite outcrops
(dee-lux). Nice locale. Also Some ice climbing routes in winter as related
to local leakage from hydro facility.
Whitehorse to Lake LaBerge - a sea of limestone slabs, faces etc. barely
developed. Includes Dramatic face that rises out of water on east side of
Lake LaBerge. Excellent but access is a Challenging but mostly time consuming.
White Mountain - limestone - about 10 sport routes on east faces and
multi-pitch potential waiting for bolting on the big north facing face.
Tombstone Territorial Park - Central Yukon - Mt. Monolith and Tombstone
Mtn. - granite but a bit variable in quality. A number of routes put in
at intermediate level by local folks as well as Morrow of Everest fame.
CRAG XXX - southwest of Kusawa Lake - 1000 ft. cliff . Gigantic boulders
around the base - all granite (dee-lux) . Virgin pure and waiting for some
Canucks to put some routes in before it goes down Yosemite style to a w
ave of Yankeeclimbers.
Magee Bluffs - a series of small single pitch basalt cliffs around south
end of Lake LaBerge near Whitehorse. A number of single pitch sport climbs
have been put in. Low to intermediate Grade.
Spirit Canyon - granite walled canyon between Haines Juncton and
Whitehorse. Excellent sport climbing up into expert range -5.11plus.
Golden Canyon - southwest of Whitehorse about 1 and a half hours by
road. Dee-Lux granite. Better then many climbing locales in Canmore area.
Fantastic geographical setting and challenging hard routes ie. Sky Traveller
5.11 plus. Across
the valley lies the "Silver Slab" - more deluxe granite with some
bolted sport routes established.
Golden Canyon only has two bolted routes and by consensus in the local climbing
community is reserved for Trad climbing.
Armada Wall - next canyon west of Golden Canyon - granite (dee-lux) - hard
trad climbs at 5.11 and beyond. Barely developed with 4 routes or so established
to date.So this is a bare bones selection of what awaits climbers from the
south who make their way up over for some climbing experiences.
There is a small climbing community here but a good one. Inclusive of Wayne Merry who lives just over the border in Atlin , B.C. - he was part of Warren Hardings team that did the first ascent of Nose on El Capitan in 1958.
Info
generously supplied by Jeff Hunston
President , Climbing Association of the Yukon
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