Central
B.C.
Although this region has few major population centres, it boasts some of the finest climbing in BC. Skaha offers a wide range of sport-climbing, including some really moderate routes, and the Bugaboos, Selkirks, Purcells and Rockies offer some of the best alpine climbing in North America. Rock climbers frequent areas like Marble Canyon near Lillooet, Mount Pope, north of Prince George, Cougar Canyon, close to Vernon, Bella Coola, and dozens of other sites with multi-pitch climbing. Scattered throughout the region are less intimidating crags which offer good places to learn rock-climbing. Also in this area is one of the historical centres of hard ice climbing in Canada: Field BC.
Penticton: Skaha
This dense area of one pitch crags south of Penticton offers climbers of
any level of ability hundreds of routes in a comfortable setting, close
to the road. Access from Valleyview Road, south of Penticton. One of Canada’s
major cragging sites.
Yak Peak
This 14 pitch semi-alpine granite spire is 55km south of Merritt on Hwy
16.
Lillooet:
Marble Canyon
Great climbing on mainly firm rock up to 300m in length, with some shorter
moderates also available. most climbing is close to the road.
Prince
George: Mount Pope
A significant multi-pitch site with variable rock, north of Prince George
on Hwy 27.
Prince George:Giscome and Teapot Mountain
These sites and numerous others in the area provide excellent cragging.
Kamloops: Roche Lake, The Beach
Roche Lake is mainly vertical to overhanging rock with blocky holds.
Climbs range from 5.8-5.12+, it is quite a popular area for more advanced
climbers. While the Beach is between vertical and something somewhat
less then vertical. The climbs range in difficulty from 5.6-5.11+ it
is more popular then Roche for those who are just getting into outdoor
climbing a result of it's low angles and the larger number of moderate
climbs.
Vernon: Cougar Canyon
South of Kalamalka Park there are a few developed routes of note.
Kelowna: Kelowna Crags
This two pitch area is accessed form Chutre Lake Road, and forms a good
local option.
Revelstoke: Lauretta Slabs
Located off of Highway 1, east of Revelstoke, these slabs are an older area,
with routes up to 2 pitches.
Bella Coola
Up to 20 pitches on remote granite walls. Not popular, but definitely worth
exploring.
Alpine Climbing: Mt. Slesse
South of Chilliwack, near the American border is this outstanding peak with
several long and involved rock routes. Access is long, but the climbing
is superb.
Alpine Climbing: Mt. Grainger/Chehalis Range
Superb alpine rock climbing near Harrison Hot Springs.
Alpine Climbing: Leaning Tower Group
A long and arduous approach from Kaslo, north of Nelson takes you into this
remote and rarely visited area which has some less committing routes, as
well as impressive alpine granite walls. Major peaks are Block and Wall
Towers, and Hall Peak.
Alpine Climbing: Purcells, Bugaboo Group
Canada’s Chamonix, with only slightly less traffic, has superb alpine
granite climbing, a few hours’ hike from the roadhead. Diverse possibilities
from 5.4-5.13 and some alpine big walls, are the attraction. Access from
Brisco, north of Invermere. The Conrad Kain Hut is run by parks Canada.
(see below for no.)
Alpine Climbing: The Selkirks, Adamant and Gothic Groups
These superb alpine rock peaks are relatively popular with climbers despite
the long hike in (helicopter access from Golden is possible). Moderate climbing
and hard alpine big walls are both available. Weather is problematic. There
are huts at Fairy Meadows and Mt. Sir Sanford (Great Cairn Hut). Contact
the ACC.
Alpine Climbing: Mt. Sir Douglas
Accessed from Spray Lakes Rd., south of Canmore AB. Superb long routes in
an Alpine setting on often excellent rock.
Alpine Climbing:Mt. Assiniboine
One of the most classic peaks in Canada, with several interesting routes.
Access a 20km hike-in trail from Spray Lakes rd, south of Canmore AB. Helicopters
are available in Canmore to take you as far as Magog Lake, which significantly
shortens the hike. (See Canadian Helicopters and Canmore Helicopters, in
Services below).
Alpine Climbing: Yoho Provincial Park
The area around Field includes many popular peaks such as the Goodsirs,
the President and the Vice President The latter two peaks can be accessed
from the ACC’s Stanley Mitchell Hut. There are also some very hard
routes in the area, such as the North face of the South Tower of Sir Goodsir.
Ice-Climbing: Field, Lillooet, Hope
Lillooet and Hope, mentioned in the Vancouver section, often have good ice.
World-class ice is available near Field, which is near Golden BC.
