Oct 29, 2008 - Canadians Attend International Climbers’ Meet
On October 3-10, the American Alpine Club (AAC) hosted America’s first International Climbers’ Meet in Indian Creek, Utah. The event brought together 49 foreign climbers from 23 countries, including Canadians Jason Kruk, Sarah Hueniken and Senja Palonen. During the meet, AAC president Jim Donini made the following observations, “I feel that what I saw happen at the ICM is the future for our shrinking planet. People coming together and appreciating each other because of what they have in common not shunning each other because of cultural differences.”
Sept 22, 2008 - Sean McColl Podiums Again
This weekend Sean McColl proved he is Canada’s best competition climber with his third place podium finish at the IFSC World Cup climbing competition in Imst Austria. This is McColl's second World Cup podium and follows his similar third place finish this July at the Italian World Cup bouldering competition in Fierra de Primierio.
Sept 18, 2008 - Niagara Glen Bouldering Ban
The Niagara Glen has been a popular climbing and bouldering area with climbers in Eastern Canada and the US for over 30 years. A new Land Management Plan is now proposing a complete bouldering ban in the park. The plan is still in draft form and climbers have until Oct 19, 2008 to comment on the proposed changes. The Ontario Access Committee is urging all climbers to contact the appropriate park officials and express their opposition to the bouldering ban. More details including a draft letter and email contact information here.
Sept 15, 2008 - Spanish Climbing Destination Threatened
Recognized as one of the best climbing areas in the world and a favorite destination with visiting climbers, Catalunya is now threatened by a new proposal limiting access to most of the cliffs. Questionable environmental concerns and some local high-ranking officials’ disdain for climbers seem to be driving the new climbing restrictions. Continued...
Sept 12, 2008 – Free Cannabis Wall
In early September, the strong team of Will Stanhope and Jason Kruk freed the classic Cannabis Wall in Squamish. The team spent about six days cleaning the five-pitch route, which is a popular first wall for many climbers. Stanhope led the route freeing every pitch with Kruk following. The new free line is a serious, difficult and sustained undertaking with pitches consisting of 5.12 R, 5.13- R, 5.12, 5.13-, 5.12-.Continued...
Sept 12, 2008 – Segal Strikes at the Cobra
On his last day in Squamish, Matt Segal pulled-off the fourth ascent of Cobra Crack 5.14b. The thin overhanging line, consisting of very painful finger locks, remained unclimbed until Sonnie Trotter bagged the first ascent in 2006. This year, the route saw a series of fast repeats by Nicolas Favresse, Ethan Pringle and now Matt Segal.
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Sept 12, 2008 - Sharma Sends Clark Mountain Project
Chris Sharma has finally climbed his much-tried project at Clark Mountain in California. Bolted over a decade ago by the prolific first ascentionist Randy Leavitt, the Clark Mountain Project remained unclimbed due to the futuristic nature of the climbing. Continued...
Sept 10, 2008 - Honnold Solos Half Dome
This spring Alex Honnold shocked the climbing world with his audacious free solo of the sustained nine-pitch testpiece Moonlight Buttress 5.12d in Zion. Not content with just one long and difficult free solo per year, Honnold has now added the 23 pitch Regular Northwest Face 5.12a on Half Dome to his free solo tick list. Continued...
Sept 8, 2009 – Climb, Run, Box – Rich Simpson Does it All
With repeats of difficult power routes like Hubble 5.14c, Action Direct 5.14d and the first ascent of A Muerte 5.14d, Rich Simpson was for a time, widely considered the next Great White Hope of the UK climbing scene. Continued...
Sept 4, 2008 - Dream Team on Kishtwar Shivling
A strong team of The North Face athletes consisting of Kevin Thaw, Mark Synnott and Canadian climbing legend Peter Croft will attempt the unclimbed East Pillar of Shivling in the Kishtwar region of Kashmir, India. The team will climb in alpine style with no fixed ropes and anticipates spending four-to-five days on the route. This is one of the most difficult routes in the region, with two previous unsuccessful attempts. Continued...
Sept 2, 2008 – Mount Nemo Threatened by Quarry
A new proposed quarry threatens Mount Nemo; one of Southern Ontario’s oldest and most popular climbing areas. The massive limestone cliff contains a broad range of traditional and sport routes and is considered the best crag in the Milton region. Located approximately 30 minutes from Toronto, Mount Nemo is used by climbers, day hikers and families during the year. A citizen’s group called Protecting Escarpment Rural Land (PERL) is hosting a benefit concert on Saturday, September 20 featuring Bruce Cockburn, Sarah Harmer, and 2008 Juno winner Derek Miller. More info here.
Aug 27, 2008 - Slovenian Climber Missing
The famous Slovenian climber Pavle Kozjek is missing after falling down the face of Muztagh Tower 7284m in Pakistan's Karakoram range. Details are still emerging but it appears that Kozjek had exited his bivy tent and fell while approaching the cornice. Continued...
Aug 25, 2008 - Avalanche on Mont Blanc – Eight Climbers Missing
On Sunday morning, an avalanche cut loose on the slopes of Mont Blanc in France sweeping away eight climbers. Hopes of finding any survivors are fading as all rescue attempts were suspended due to risk of further avalanche hazard. The missing climbers include five Austrian and three Swiss climbers. Continued...
Aug 14, 2008 - Pringle Charms the Cobra
After coming within a few moves of sending Cobra Crack 5.14b last month, Ethan Pringle returned to Squamish and today bagged the third ascent of the painful overhanging finger crack. Pringle completed the route after six days of work and describes Cobra Crack as an “amazing line but so painful!” The route was originally climbed by Sonnie Trotter and was repeated earlier this summer by Belgian rockstar Nicolas Favresse. Continued...
Aug 8, 2008 – Carpenter Nails Squamish Problems
Edmonton local Thirza Carpenter is demonstrating the fine form that won her the title of Canadian National Bouldering Champion. During her recent trip to Squamish, Carpenter dispatched No Troublems V9/10, Backseat V10 and came within one move of sending The Egg V11. Continued...
July 31, 2008 – Echo Wall Tumbles
Scottish climber Dave Macleod has added a new dangerous testpiece to his ticklist of difficult routes. Echo Wall is a 100m long route and consists of an easy 30m slab pitch followed by a 70m pitch of difficult and poorly protected climbing with serious ground fall potential at the end of the crux. Continued...
July 30, 2008 – Top U.S. Climber Doesn’t Climb Two of Canada’s Hardest Routes
After ongoing speculation and rumours about his quick repeats of two of Canada’s hardest routes, American Ethan Pringle denies having climbed Cobra Crack 5.14b/c and Dreamcatcher 5.14d. “I just have to say that I have not completed the Dream Catcher,” says Pringle. “I came frustratingly close [on Cobra Crack], falling at the last hard move” explains Pringle. Some climbers refuse to accept Pringle’s denials, however. “A friend of mine knows the girlfriend of the boulderer climbing on a nearby problem who saw him climb Dreamcatcher” claims a Squamish local who asked not to be identified. “I just don’t understand why he won’t admit to climbing these routes” she continues. Whether Pringle will continue to deny future rumours of having sent hard routes remains to be seen. Continued...
July 28, 2008 – Manboy is Super
This weekend Steve ‘Manboy’ Townsend contributed to the long list of already established difficult routes in Cheakamus Canyon with his first ascent of Supermanboy 5.14c. The climb is located on the steep and imposing Big Show Wall and is a variation of the existing route Superman 5.14c.
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July 28, 2008 - Favresse Fires The Cobra
During his Squamish visit Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse bagged the second ascent of Cobra Crack 5.14b/c. The difficult overhanging finger crack was first climbed by Sonnie Trotter in 2006 and is recognized as one of the world's most difficult trad lines due to its sustained climbing and painful fingerlocks. Continued...
July 17, 2008 - Pringle Hikes The Path
After months of being on the injured list, American climber Ethan Pringle bagged the second ascent of The Path 5.14 R at Back of The Lake, Lake Louise. The repeat came after just two top-rope rehearsal sessions and signals the return of Pringle to the elite climbing level.
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July 14, 2008 – Squamish Scandal
An upcoming closure of the Smoke Bluffs for commercial filming is causing a stir among the Squamish climbing community.
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July 3, 2008 - Nose Record Broken
The team of Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine set a new speed record for climbing the Nose on El Cap.
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June 25, 2008 - Germans Blitz Granite Wall
The strong German team of Stefan Glowacz, Robert Jasper, Klaus Fengler, Holger Heuber and Mariusz Hoffman recently completed one of the hardest big wall routes on Baffin Island.
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June 16, 2008 – McClure Makes Third Ascent of Rhapsody
Steve McClure is unstoppable this season. Having completed numerous difficult UK routes, McClure turned his attention to Rhapsody.
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June 16, 2008 - McColl Places Third in Italy
This weekend Sean McColl demonstrated the form which is earning him the title of Canada’s best climber. Continued...
June 10, 2008 – Trotter Repeats Rhapsody
After four and a half weeks of battling hot weather and shredded skin, Canadian Sonnie Trotter bagged the second ascent of Dave MacLeod’s poorly protected, 5.14 testpiece Rhapsody. Trotter continues to climb the world’s hardest gear lines and this route adds to his impressive tick list.
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June 1, 2008 - Sharma Sends in Spain
Chris Sharma’s recent move to Spain has not hurt his climbing as he recently bagged the first ascent of his new project in Oliana.
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